The beginning of this video has both the lower knock and upper tick, half way through switches to new video from tonight with all gone. The knock was fixed by replacing the main and rod bearings. The ticking and diesel sound are gone now after replacing the camshaft, lifters, and full rocker assemblies.


All the banging and ticking is gone now. The one thing that really surprised me is the increase in power. I guess it makes sense. 155k miles puts a lot of wear on the lifters, rocker shafts, etc, as seen in the photos. That wear adds up to thousandths of inches that ultimately reduces how far the valves will open. Which allows for less fuel and air into the cylinder. The truck now feels like it has a good 30 or 40 more horsepower! Here's some more pics of the build:

 

Congratulations. Time to roast meat to honor the Rover gods...

How much did the rocker assembly cost you?

 

8 X 602153G - Rocker Arm LH - USD 49.52 - 0.432 kg
8 X 602154G - - Rocker Arm RH - USD 49.52 - 0.432 kg
2 X 611659L - Rocker Shaft Assy - USD 36.00 - 1.19 kg
1 X ERR3720 - Camshaft - USD 81.61 - 2.94 kg
16 X ERC4949 - Tappets - USD 83.52 - 1.54 kg
16 x 603378 - Push Rods - USD 28.27 - 3.68 kg

Total Parts: $328.44

Shipping was $49.00 and I received my parts 7 days after I ordered. I emailed them a few times too and the sales guys were very knowledgeable and fast to get back to me. No complaints so far!

Website: Quality Land Rover Parts Spares and Accessories Online

But don't let it fool you, there's still the 14 hours of labor!

 

X10 for me....

Would time (and vocabulary building exercise) been saved by dropping lifters out the bottom?

 

I would say this is an emergency only option and here's why. You only have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off, so it rests there a few inches below the block hung up on transmission fluid lines, the frame cross bar, etc. Second, from what I remember on the rod and main bearing replacement was a ton of turning the crankshaft manually to get things in the right place to access bolts etc.

So, to push the lifters through the bottom, I'd have to remove the frame cross bar, completely remove the oil pan, and have to fiddle with the crankshaft to get the area opened up allow space for them to fall through. That's a lot of extra work but I understand that would sometimes be necessary if the lifters are just to mushroomed to come out of the top. It may be an easier option for those with a lift, but I was able to get the right combo of assembly lube and vice grips and didn't have to mess with all the lower end stuff on a creeper.

 

Don't you think the cam grind had an effect on the horsepower?

Very interesting, though. I definitely have a fair amount of lifter noise, and I'm only at 107k miles.

 

I'm feeling inspired.

Heads are on my list of this to do, but having the low end knock has scared me away because I don't want to get in there and find slipped liners. This is the exact knock mine makes. Comes and goes, but generally always there.

When I find another daily driver, and get the garage cleared out, I will most likely do this at the same time I do the heads.

 

How about a follow up on mpg after a couple of tanks? Seems like the ECU would still authorize and squirt the same quantity fuel even though lift has changed if cam grind different.

 

"Heads are on my list of this to do, but having the low end knock has scared me away because I don't want to get in there and find slipped liners. This is the exact knock mine makes. Comes and goes, but generally always there." iF your main or rod bearing inserts, especially main inserts are worn enough for knock, as Caymandrew had, the longer you drive it, the more the chances that you will beat flat spots, out of round spots, on crankshaft journals, if not already done, which will cost you a lot more to repair it, to replace crank., or have crank journals worked over by good auto machine shop.

 

glad to see the allmakes parts worked out for you