Can I use the heated windscreen wiring for aux lights?
#31
Frank4
lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.
THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.
[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.[/I]
And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.
So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.
So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.
THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.
[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.[/I]
And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.
So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.
So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
Last edited by drowssap; 05-23-2014 at 07:48 AM.
#32
#33
Frank4
lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.
THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.
[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.[/I]
And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.
So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.
So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.
THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.
[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.[/I]
And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.
So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.
So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
I am not in the habit of asking questions that I know the answer to.
#34
#36
Last i looked, this is a general discussion style of forum you boner.
Well boner, since you have a fascination with boners (perhaps you enjoy giving head or something. I won't judge) It is a general discussion style of forum. So don't get all butthurt when someone says perhaps thats not a good idea. I bet you're a bleeding heart liberal, at least you act like one.
log on to "my land rover mechanic.com" and pay for a certified mechanic info
Well boner, since you have a fascination with boners (perhaps you enjoy giving head or something. I won't judge) It is a general discussion style of forum. So don't get all butthurt when someone says perhaps thats not a good idea. I bet you're a bleeding heart liberal, at least you act like one.
log on to "my land rover mechanic.com" and pay for a certified mechanic info
Oh look, proof for you, boner, that this IS a general discussion forum.
This is you when you take a cumshot in the mouth!
#37
Well boner, since you have a fascination with boners (perhaps you enjoy giving head or something. I won't judge) It is a general discussion style of forum. So don't get all butthurt when someone says perhaps thats not a good idea. I bet you're a bleeding heart liberal, at least you act like one.
#38
#39
#40