Can I use the heated windscreen wiring for aux lights?
#21
05-22-2014, 04:19 PM
The person I bought my D2 from gave me the factory male ends that went out to the "old" heated windshield to use for lighting in the future to make a clean transition with the factory wiring in the cowl...Isn't the switch on the dash timed also? you'd have to do something with that.
#22
05-22-2014, 04:42 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#23
05-22-2014, 04:48 PM
For saftey in your calculations use 13.8v instead of 12.5v, and you'd be far better off measuring the amperage draw of the lights then use the rated luminecent watt output rating of the bulbs they stick in the systems... things aint 100% effecient by any long stretch haha.
you could also do a redneck test with some extra wire and a voltmeter to find out if each heated windshield harness puts out its own or needs to have a circuit between them to flow power... just see if any of the other breakers and/or fuses are the same size and type to swap in from other systems to see if will even work without a computer reprogram like you might think. that one, I dont know.
after all that though, wiring new lights to the battery with a switch through the firewall plug really shoudlnt take more then 5 minutes worth of time
if your really worried about it toss in some inline fuses on the lines you run... you could probably even get away with buttconnectors if you arent up to soldering and shrink tape.
you could also do a redneck test with some extra wire and a voltmeter to find out if each heated windshield harness puts out its own or needs to have a circuit between them to flow power... just see if any of the other breakers and/or fuses are the same size and type to swap in from other systems to see if will even work without a computer reprogram like you might think. that one, I dont know.
after all that though, wiring new lights to the battery with a switch through the firewall plug really shoudlnt take more then 5 minutes worth of time
if your really worried about it toss in some inline fuses on the lines you run... you could probably even get away with buttconnectors if you arent up to soldering and shrink tape.The person I bought my D2 from gave me the factory male ends that went out to the "old" heated windshield to use for lighting in the future to make a clean transition with the factory wiring in the cowl...Isn't the switch on the dash timed also? you'd have to do something with that.
and.. ANOTHER "never done it, won't work"
#24
05-22-2014, 05:05 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#25
05-22-2014, 07:50 PM
The factory heated screen wiring is in 3.0mm˛ cable, which is twice the gauge of most spotlight wiring.
3.0mm˛ cable is rated to a nominal 33 Amps - so, that's 33 Amps for each connector on either side of the screen.
They are switched by a single relay (R8) in the engine compartment fuse box, and fused individually at 40 Amps each (F7 & F8).
The main problem with using this circuit for spotlights is that the BCU controls the earth path for R8 and, if the circuit is used unmodified, your spotlights will 'time-out' after 5 minutes.
They would also turn on when you pressed the 'Defrost Mode' button on the Climate Control panel, as this is linked to the BCU, to switch on both front and rear heated screens in this mode.
You could easily modify the front screen wiring, so that the earth for R8 is switched directly by a facia switch, and not controlled by the BCU.
The factory heated screen switch wouldn't work, as it doesn't latch in the 'on' position.
The switch to use would be a D2 rear wiper switch, as this is wired exactly the same as the heated screen switch, but it latches in the 'on' position.
The rear wiper switch also uses the same Green 5-way connector as the heated front screen switch, so no modifications required there.
It would require the switch's body keyway to be removed, so that it will fit into the position above the heated rear screen switch.
This is easily done, with a sharp knife.
To illustrate, this is the body keyway on a Defender Puma heated seat switch -
The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.
.
3.0mm˛ cable is rated to a nominal 33 Amps - so, that's 33 Amps for each connector on either side of the screen.
They are switched by a single relay (R8) in the engine compartment fuse box, and fused individually at 40 Amps each (F7 & F8).
The main problem with using this circuit for spotlights is that the BCU controls the earth path for R8 and, if the circuit is used unmodified, your spotlights will 'time-out' after 5 minutes.
They would also turn on when you pressed the 'Defrost Mode' button on the Climate Control panel, as this is linked to the BCU, to switch on both front and rear heated screens in this mode.
You could easily modify the front screen wiring, so that the earth for R8 is switched directly by a facia switch, and not controlled by the BCU.
The factory heated screen switch wouldn't work, as it doesn't latch in the 'on' position.
The switch to use would be a D2 rear wiper switch, as this is wired exactly the same as the heated screen switch, but it latches in the 'on' position.
The rear wiper switch also uses the same Green 5-way connector as the heated front screen switch, so no modifications required there.
It would require the switch's body keyway to be removed, so that it will fit into the position above the heated rear screen switch.
This is easily done, with a sharp knife.
To illustrate, this is the body keyway on a Defender Puma heated seat switch -
The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.
.
#26
05-22-2014, 08:53 PM
The factory heated screen wiring is in 3.0mm˛ cable, which is twice the gauge of most spotlight wiring.
3.0mm˛ cable is rated to a nominal 33 Amps - so, that's 33 Amps for each connector on either side of the screen.
They are switched by a single relay (R8) in the engine compartment fuse box, and fused individually at 40 Amps each (F7 & F8).
The main problem with using this circuit for spotlights is that the BCU controls the earth path for R8 and, if the circuit is used unmodified, your spotlights will 'time-out' after 5 minutes.
They would also turn on when you pressed the 'Defrost Mode' button on the Climate Control panel, as this is linked to the BCU, to switch on both front and rear heated screens in this mode.
You could easily modify the front screen wiring, so that the earth for R8 is switched directly by a facia switch, and not controlled by the BCU.
The factory heated screen switch wouldn't work, as it doesn't latch in the 'on' position.
The switch to use would be a D2 rear wiper switch, as this is wired exactly the same as the heated screen switch, but it latches in the 'on' position.
The rear wiper switch also uses the same Green 5-way connector as the heated front screen switch, so no modifications required there.
It would require the switch's body keyway to be removed, so that it will fit into the position above the heated rear screen switch.
This is easily done, with a sharp knife.
To illustrate, this is the body keyway on a Defender Puma heated seat switch -
The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.
.
3.0mm˛ cable is rated to a nominal 33 Amps - so, that's 33 Amps for each connector on either side of the screen.
They are switched by a single relay (R8) in the engine compartment fuse box, and fused individually at 40 Amps each (F7 & F8).
The main problem with using this circuit for spotlights is that the BCU controls the earth path for R8 and, if the circuit is used unmodified, your spotlights will 'time-out' after 5 minutes.
They would also turn on when you pressed the 'Defrost Mode' button on the Climate Control panel, as this is linked to the BCU, to switch on both front and rear heated screens in this mode.
You could easily modify the front screen wiring, so that the earth for R8 is switched directly by a facia switch, and not controlled by the BCU.
The factory heated screen switch wouldn't work, as it doesn't latch in the 'on' position.
The switch to use would be a D2 rear wiper switch, as this is wired exactly the same as the heated screen switch, but it latches in the 'on' position.
The rear wiper switch also uses the same Green 5-way connector as the heated front screen switch, so no modifications required there.
It would require the switch's body keyway to be removed, so that it will fit into the position above the heated rear screen switch.
This is easily done, with a sharp knife.
To illustrate, this is the body keyway on a Defender Puma heated seat switch -
The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.
This is easily done, as they just unclip.
Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.
To modify the wiring, would involve -
1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.
2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8
3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8
Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly
If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).
That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.
This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'
The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.
I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.
Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -
Delphi Weather-Pack series
Delphi GT280 series
Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series
But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle panel.
.
Sweet baby Jesus, this guy knows his stuff. Thanks 1000x for this in depth step by step solution.
I will be in touch!
WWNTI's This is how you constructively answer an inquiry!!!
#28
05-22-2014, 11:34 PM
#29
05-23-2014, 12:25 AM
Guys I know it's hard to actually answer a very well asked question. And you must be explicit on this site when asking a question because if you aren't the entire thread will be derailed with conjecture and off topic BS. Then somewhere down the line ( maybe reply four or five) you get the first WWNTI reply. Review this first guys threads, there is probably an oil change question or maybe the ol' gas milage report. Zero substance. The second WWNTI will not be far behind. This guy smells blood in the water and melts his keyboard with an even more discouraging reply, of course he has no real experience with your inquiry because the most technical task he has actually taken on is joining the forum and asking about the sloshing noise in his glove box. Caveat : between the first to WWNTIs they will have over 1000 post to this forum.
So, to future posters that want an answer: Be EXPLICIT ! I mean right down to the color wire you are using and where you bought your last three tanks of gas. Seriously these dudes can get rediculous.
