I changed my oil last night. Used Rotella T 15w40. Drained on a level surface, and then poured about 5.5-6 quarts in. I let it rest for about 5 minutes, per RAVE, and then checked level with the dipstick probably 10 times. I couldn't get a clean read. The dipstick was wet (only on one edge of the dipstick, though) way up at the end of the "do not overfill" warning. The darker oil wetness that was on both edges was down to the end of the "FULL" that is above the little notch.
I don't want to run too much oil, but if I drained the oil and put in only 6 quarts at the max, is that even possible? Why can't I get a clean read from my dipstick? No white smoke or anything weird this morning while driving the 3.5 miles to work. But boy howdy, it is running a lot smoother.

 

This is a common thing we deal with as Disco owners. I've experienced the same thing. As long as you put in 6 qts you are fine. You'll get a good read if you go for a drive and then let it sit.

You can get a more accurate read if you pull the dip stick and let it sit out for 5-10 mins. This will allow the extra oil in the dip stick tube to drain down to the pan and settle. Then clean your dip stick and try reading it again.

 

Don't worry about it, clean your dipstick with carb or brake cleaner and check you oil level tomorrow before a cold start.

 

A few ways.

1) Let it sit all night. Read it next morning - best way.

2) For the impatient - Pull the stick and look for the oil to cover the whole dipstick. That will be the actual level. The 1/2 covered and fuzzy parts are oil retained in the dip stick sheath getting onto the dip stick from turbulence in the crank case when the engine is running.

Strongly suggest (1) for you.

It is not critical if you run a quart low in normal everyday to the supermarket type of duty.

If you find in the morning you are a quart down from an oil change, put in a quart then check it again the next morning.

 

thanks guys.

 

Joshman,

You should move item 3 to the top of the list.

 

It is the next item, actually. Payday will have a new driveline en route.

I am working on coolant system right now (low cost), and am lost on it. There are so many different write ups on it, I am not sure what best to do. A How-to with pictures for a 2004 Disco coolant flush would be awesome, so I guess I should do it myself. The problem is that I will see one that says all of the steps, but then there are comments afterward that say that some things are not necessary, some are, etc. Do I remove the plugs from the engine block, or just one, or none? flush from the top and the bottom? Lots of variation.

 

A coolant flush is a waste of time with our radiators, the veins are too small and don't clean out, plan on a new radiator if and when you start running warmer maybe next summer. In the mean time install a 180 soft spring t/stat if you want to help your cooling system.
As for your drive shaft, do you know how much a new tranny is when you have to replace it because of a failed shaft.
That should be your number 1 item, if you are mechanical enough, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send your a PDF on how to do it your self for under $100.

 

I am happy to skip a full system flush, as long as I am not still running the orange stuff. I was boning up on how to flush anyway, but since it isn't a must do, then as long as I am already running green coolant I will abandon the flush and just keep fluids topped off.
Where would I get a 180 soft spring? Are you the one that recommended the Motorad 439-180? That is the one I was planning on ordering. If I am still running the orange coolant, I will post asking for help on a flush.
@DiscoMike, thanks a bunch for your offer to help with the drive shaft rebuild. I have read through the how-to on rebuilding the drive shaft, and since I can buy one shipped for $300 I am going that route. I am planning on ordering one from Dynamic Drive Line (recommended by LR2001Silver). He uses all US parts (NEAPCO), and a bolt in option is worth the difference in price for me (guarantee, already balanced, etc.).
I love my disco, but my wife is shocked by how much work it has taken so far. I keep telling her that this is just to get caught up on what the PO may or may not have done, so if I turn her table into a driveshaft rebuilding workbench I will never hear the end of it. I am planning on bleeding/refilling the TCase, Diff, ATF, brakes, and power steering while I wait for the drive shaft to come in. I just looked at my signature and realized I need to do some updating.

 

Bad news, I have a coolant system full of orange, so a flush is in my future.