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CAN'T PULL OUT HEATER RETURN PIPE TO REPLACE "O" RING and then some

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Old May 22, 2016 | 08:13 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by adolfojbonilla
I decided to get my hands dirty and replace the "O" ring in the "Heater return pipe", but I'm unable to pull it out of its place after removing the bolt that holds it; in the attempt, I broke off the "brake servo vacuum pipe" right at the inlet plenum.

Any clues on how to get the pipe out and temporary solution for the broken pipe, if any?


That pipe has two bolts does it not? One on the intake and one at the bend.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 08:15 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by adolfojbonilla
...thanks NickAdams for your quick response! ...will WD40 work, or will PB Blaster make it easier, as per the "press fit collar" suggestion, I'll give it a try, hopefully both things are something I'll find at Home Depot, thanks again!

Job seemed pretty straight forward and relatively easy, but things have gone south proportionally! ;-]#


You are also missing the plug for the nipple directly under the brake booster hose. If you don't plug that hole, you will have a major vacuum leak.


Opps, stated already
 

Last edited by shanechevelle; May 22, 2016 at 08:18 AM.
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Old May 22, 2016 | 08:28 AM
  #13  
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When I broke the brake servo vac line and the red collar I used a vinyl grommet from Radio Shack to seal it up. I happened to have a bag of them in different sizes lying around. I carefully cut off one side of the grommet, slipped it over the end of the nylon pipe, and inserted it into the fitting. Worked like a charm for a couple of years until I got a new red collar from a boneyard truck.

Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...

And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 12:13 PM
  #14  
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...no matter what I hit or pull, there is no way to get the tube out to replace the "O" ring, I've pretty much took most of the parts outta the way, but I don't get the thing to move, any hints will be urgently appreciated, didn't think I was gonna hit such a big roadblock!
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
That pipe has two bolts does it not? One on the intake and one at the bend.
Just in case they're not all out. Diagram shows pipe.
O RING HEATER PIPE DISCOVERY II, 38A R/R, RND354, ERR6434 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
......
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 01:01 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
That pipe has two bolts does it not? One on the intake and one at the bend.
...yup, those two were the first out, rubber hose disconnected, got it to move out like a 16th of an inch, and nothing more from there, left it soaking in PB Blaster overnight, but no luck! ...so I'm between a rock and a hard place here! ;-]#
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mln01
When I broke the brake servo vac line and the red collar I used a vinyl grommet from Radio Shack to seal it up. I happened to have a bag of them in different sizes lying around. I carefully cut off one side of the grommet, slipped it over the end of the nylon pipe, and inserted it into the fitting. Worked like a charm for a couple of years until I got a new red collar from a boneyard truck.

Once you get the heater return pipe out be careful reinstalling it with the new O-ring. I buggered two O-rings. On the third attempt I lubed it and it went together easily. Doesn't much matter what you lube it with --- motor oil, Vaseline, butter ...

And mollusc is right; there should be a cap on that other vacuum port. If left open you'll likely get P0171 and P0174 codes.
...and how were you able to get it out? I cannot make it move any more...
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #18  
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...someone suggested that the housing at the end of the tube, the one that gets bolted into the engine gets removed, and below/inside that there was a "cir-clip" to release, does it make any sense?

...btw, since unable to remove the heater pipe, and looking at my Landy being put out of commission for this upcoming week, I decided to start changing the valve cover gaskets, got the first off -caught my attention that the bolts weren't tight at all, anyways take a look how it looks as soon as they came off!
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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I removed that heater pipe recently when I replaced my head gaskets. I recall that I had to pry on it pretty hard to get it to come out but I don't think there was anything other than the two bolts that had to actually be unfastened.
 
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Old May 22, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
I removed that heater pipe recently when I replaced my head gaskets. I recall that I had to pry on it pretty hard to get it to come out but I don't think there was anything other than the two bolts that had to actually be unfastened.
...what did you use to pry it with, I'm pretty sure I'll have to replace it afterwards, it's pretty banged up! ...I just can't get it to move any further, the damn thing seems solded to the engine!
 
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