The Percision should be a 617, not a 417 and they are easily found on line when you Google u-joints.
If you use the 617 then also buy the Percision 344 u-joints for a matched set.

 

My bad. Sorry about that. Yes, that would have sucked to get the wrong part! I went back and changed it so I do screw anyone up if they do a search later.

I would have a driveline shop lined up just in case. Sometimes it is impossible to get the center ball out without a torch to cut it. I had the driveshaft out and one of the u-joint already in. The driveline shop did the centerball and the other 2 u-joints, balanced and painted for $50. Totally worth it. Good luck...let us know how it goes.

 

No, it is a slightly different length but uses the same u-joints.

 

A slide hammer gets the centering ball out no probs andI personally dont think itmatters at allwhich ball / u-joint comboyou use tbh. I used GKN ones in mine. If they fit they will do the job.

 

Man - just when I thought I was getting a handle on this situation humroot (no offense) goes and throws a wrench in the gears. In the past I have changed uuuuu lets just say alot of u-joints, never re-manufactured a driveshaft in the manner I'm about to. I have also broken u-joints off road but, those only destroyed themselves and banged the surrounding area a little - NEVER took out a transmission, THATS why I'm doing this as soon as I get all this stuff (knowledge) processed and the stuff (parts) come in. But, humroot mentions having the shaft balanced after the work is done, I have never heard of this - I've also never owned a double cadigon (sp) that didnt have a carrier (would not fly far). Does the shaft have to be "balanced"?

Thanks for all the input

Robert

 

Just make sure you mark the shaft where it goes together on the double cardon joint so the shaft goes back together the same way it was. I marked mine, but after hours with a slide hammer, chisel, propane torch, etc. the marks came off. I couldn't get the center ball out of mine and had to take it to a shop anyway. If you can get everything put back together the way it came apart, and you didn't have a vibration when you started, you should be good to go. I really couldn't tell you why mine was so hard to get off, most folks don't seem to have a problem. I'm sure I'm the exception and that yours will go fine.

 

humroot,

Cool Beans - thanks for the response. I should (hopefully) be good to go. Something I have already done (was taught to me by an old Trail Guide after my first shattered u-joint) is use a Dremel Tool with a cutting wheel to run a scribe line across all the separation points of a drive shaft including the output and pinion flanges. However, although doing this seems to have saved me from problems after the fact, I never knew problems could be encountered by "just changing a u-joint!

Thanks for the information and patients

Robert

 

If you mark your drive shaft and put the u-joints in with their jerks facing opposite direction, you won't need to rebalance the drive shaft.