Chasing strange fault
Anyway- OP, are you saying it cranks but won't turn over? Or no crank? Are you getting fuel pump noise at key position 2?
Thanks for all the comments on this! I have currently stopped diagnostics on the vehicle as I am going to purchase the vehicle from my neighbor. I will resume diagnostic work once I have acquired the vehicle. I will answer some questions though.
I have power to the cluster because the SRS light illuminates for 3 seconds but no other lights on the dash will work nor will the digital odometer part of the cluster.
I was not able to run diagnostics on the starter or the fuel pump but I will when I acquire the vehicle in a few weeks.
But that still does not explain no lights on the cluster.
I am 90% sure it’s the BCU because I am unable to find an open circuit at this time.
The brake switch was just changed recently I can see how that would cause the truck not to shift but does not explain the no light on cluster.
Again thanks everybody for you’re time I will repost an update once I have acquired the vehicle.
In the meantime whats the cheapest I can get a BCU for in the USA?
Do I need any assistance from Land Rover in switching this unit out?
I have power to the cluster because the SRS light illuminates for 3 seconds but no other lights on the dash will work nor will the digital odometer part of the cluster.
I was not able to run diagnostics on the starter or the fuel pump but I will when I acquire the vehicle in a few weeks.
But that still does not explain no lights on the cluster.
I am 90% sure it’s the BCU because I am unable to find an open circuit at this time.
The brake switch was just changed recently I can see how that would cause the truck not to shift but does not explain the no light on cluster.
Again thanks everybody for you’re time I will repost an update once I have acquired the vehicle.
In the meantime whats the cheapest I can get a BCU for in the USA?
Do I need any assistance from Land Rover in switching this unit out?
Oh yes I forgot the vehicle will not crank at all that’s what I meant by not turning over. I will add one bit of information my neighbor told me, at low voltage everything works! I have not tested that yet I will be putting a brand new battery in it once I acquire the vehicle. He just purchased a new battery and I had no reason to suspect the battery to be buggered! He is keeping the new battery when he sells it to me.
What if anything can anyone tell me about buggerd batteries?
What if anything can anyone tell me about buggerd batteries?
I have acquired the vehicle and was able to diagnose a bit further. I did hear clicking coming from the starter relay I think it’s labeled AUX. I jumpered the starter and it turns over but does start. What does this mean for me now? I still have no dash lights.
Go to your underhood fuse box and have a helper try to start the car
Does the starter solenoid click? Yes - you have a either worn out starter brushes or a locked engine (2nd is unlikely) Starter brushes last about 130k. Recommend a rebuilt starter.
No - Does the starter relay in the fuse box click? Yes - you likely have a bad starter solenoid. You can jumper the lugs on the starter to confirm.
No - pull the starter relay from the fuse box and put a test light/volt meter across the 85 and 86 relay positions (labeled on bottom of relay) check to see if the test light/volt meter lights when trying to start. Yes - you have a bad relay - swap it with another one to test it.
No - you have a wiring problem inside the car with the ignition switch.
Report back after doing this and we can talk you through the next steps.
Does the starter solenoid click? Yes - you have a either worn out starter brushes or a locked engine (2nd is unlikely) Starter brushes last about 130k. Recommend a rebuilt starter.
No - Does the starter relay in the fuse box click? Yes - you likely have a bad starter solenoid. You can jumper the lugs on the starter to confirm.
No - pull the starter relay from the fuse box and put a test light/volt meter across the 85 and 86 relay positions (labeled on bottom of relay) check to see if the test light/volt meter lights when trying to start. Yes - you have a bad relay - swap it with another one to test it.
No - you have a wiring problem inside the car with the ignition switch.
Report back after doing this and we can talk you through the next steps.
I heard clicking coming from the starter relay it’s labeled under the hood as AUX on the fuse box cover. I jumpered the starter and it turns over but will not start up. What does this mean now? I am still confused because I still have no instrument panel lights.
Well after checking the fuse box under the dash I discovered some sort of bypass from a previous owner. Once the two fuses were replaced and connected to fuse slot27 while connected to the battery . Everything works now and the truck runs but the instrument panel will not turn off now unless I remove the bypass from slot 27 in the fuse box. What was this bypass for why would someone do this and how do I fix this????
If you download the Rave manual it has all the wiring diagrams, you can trace it out. Most probable answer is there was a fault in the fusebox, so they had to wire in the jumper from the battery. My guess is the power feed to fuse 27 was a switched power feed and the PO did not understand that concept and wired it direct to the battery. Almost everything is switched power in the fusebox, only real exceptions is the headlights and the horn. You should be able to move the jumper wire to any of the switched power sources and it will solve your problems. You could also replace the fusebox with a junkyard one, but that is a fair amount of work.
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TexasDiscovery
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Aug 6, 2013 12:54 PM



