Check Engine light issue
#1
Check Engine light issue
My 1996 Disco I runs great. I did some maintenance on it (spark plugs, fuel filter, and oil change). It continued to run great for about 200 miles. Yesterday I go to started and it seems either flooded, not getting enough gas, or misfiring (low unstable idle). I give it some gas and then it normalizes. It hasn’t done that since then and it drives like always. However, my “check engine” light is on. I found a vacuum hose disconnected (the one that connects to the “black cylinder rubber looking thing” near the throttle cable (I think it might be for the cruise control?). I plugged it back in but the light still on, even after disconnecting the battery. Any ideas what this could have been (I know it is hard to troubleshoot without pulling the codes, but I wanted to run it by the forum before I drop the $100 to read the codes.
By the way, while I was checking the vacuum hoses for leaks, I found that the hose that goes into the car under the dashboard (driver side) from the T is connected to a funny looking switch (“Hella”), but mine was just dangling (not attached to anything). Is this supposed to be connected to anything?
Also, the other hose from the T that runs into the front left side, where does it connect? (I could not find the end once it goes into the fender).
Thanks a lot.
Chelo
1996 Disco I SE7 (USA)
By the way, while I was checking the vacuum hoses for leaks, I found that the hose that goes into the car under the dashboard (driver side) from the T is connected to a funny looking switch (“Hella”), but mine was just dangling (not attached to anything). Is this supposed to be connected to anything?
Also, the other hose from the T that runs into the front left side, where does it connect? (I could not find the end once it goes into the fender).
Thanks a lot.
Chelo
1996 Disco I SE7 (USA)
#2
RE: Check Engine light issue
I'll hopefully answer the easy one first:
The hose that goes under the dash on the drivers side connects to a vacuum break switch on the brake pedal. This clips into a bracket in front of the brake pedal, and the plunger should be depressed when the brakes are not. The other hose from the tee that dissapears into the fender goes to the cruise vacuum pump. They both connect up through that tee to the actuator (the black cylinder rubber looking thingy) by the throttle control.
The rough idle:
Given you just redid plugs, I would check that you got the wires back on in the right order and that they are seated properly, as a first check.
As far as the codes go, you could probably buy the OBDII reader for the $100 and get the codes for what is happening. A lot of the national chains will pull the codes for you pretty cheap (or free) in the hopes of selling you parts. I assume by the price that you were planning to go to a dealer first.
The hose that goes under the dash on the drivers side connects to a vacuum break switch on the brake pedal. This clips into a bracket in front of the brake pedal, and the plunger should be depressed when the brakes are not. The other hose from the tee that dissapears into the fender goes to the cruise vacuum pump. They both connect up through that tee to the actuator (the black cylinder rubber looking thingy) by the throttle control.
The rough idle:
Given you just redid plugs, I would check that you got the wires back on in the right order and that they are seated properly, as a first check.
As far as the codes go, you could probably buy the OBDII reader for the $100 and get the codes for what is happening. A lot of the national chains will pull the codes for you pretty cheap (or free) in the hopes of selling you parts. I assume by the price that you were planning to go to a dealer first.
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