Hey folks, new to the group and to the brand. I am trying to see if what I am thinking of doing makes sense to the long time owners of the DII versions. I have been reading about these vehicles for some time and I like the size, look and 4x4 ability. From what I gather the major issues are with the factory powertrain. Specifically the head gaskets, liners, machining etc. Without writing a book here, my idea is to buy a 2000-2002 DII under 150K miles with a good body and interior and figure on installing a "top hat" engine and rebuilt transmission new radiator etc. I have found a local (Pacific NW) one that I know does not run. I can get it for around $500. The body is straight with no accidents listed and the interior is clean and not tore up. According to the VIN info it has been here it's whole life and until around 90K was serviced by one of the local LR dealers. My question is, if I do all this am I left with a solid vehicle that will be for the most part dependable or am I nuts to try to make this work? I would be doing the work myself and the predicted use would be 1000-2000 miles per year in a desert type climate.
Crap I wrote a book...sorry

 

I see nothing wrong with your logic. Here is the scoop, as I see it. The problems with the land rover engines, are usually directly linked to excessive heat. The process which they were manufactured has been a problem stemming back from the beginning. The liners can slip, the material around the liners crack and introduce coolant into the combustion chamber, head gaskets blow, etc.
A "top hat" repaired block will remedy the liner problem, but something must be done to keep your engine at a temp that is not detrimental.
The cooling system is designed more for passenger comfort, than proper cooling of the "aluminum engine". The stock thermostat allows the temp to reach destructible levels, temp fluctuation and the bypass system recirculates hot coolant back in the engine.
I have been studying a book that is called"Tuning the Rover Engine for Road and Track" and it is very enlightening. Professional engine builders have been building reliable Rover engines for many years, and they are all in agreement about keeping the engine temps in the 167-174 degree range with no exceptions. The also all agree that head studs should be used instead of head bolts, and an oil cooler should always be used.

 

The answer is no. There are a lot more "problems" than just the engine or powertrain. A $500 price is a good start though. If it's what you described, just a few parts of the interior are worth more than that.

Still, if it's even as good as you describe, you might even more easily than parting it out, repair or replace the engine and sell it as is, running, for ten times as much.

If you want to keep it, plan on spending over $10K in the first several years.

 

Joemamma, that is what my research of the various forums seems to point out. It is interesting that with heat being the big issue there is no option for radiators on the DII. On other trucks I have done this type of thing with you can order a four row if you wanted to. Seems like fan clutches, fan blades and quicker reacting thermostats are about all there is.

Binvanna, I didnt mean to say these are the only problems it just seems like the other issues do not come up near as much. If I buy a low milage well kept/maintained DII for $3-$7K it seems like it is just a matter of time on the head gasket or cracked block etc. If I can find a good donor to start with and do the engine etc. I figured I would have the majors out of the way That is where I am coming from.

Thank you both for the input. I tis much appreciated.

 

Some other options, that I plan to do.
1 inline thermostat mod, but I will use 170 degree thermostat if there is one available.
2 2 speed electric fan, Alex_M(forum member) utilized a Taurus fan(80.00 on Ebay, brand new) that fits with very minor alteration and you can put controller to start at your desired temp, and connect the 2nd speed to come on with A/C. Or hook up how ever you decide. I think he hooked his up to a switch to come on at his discretion. Other members drowsap, I believe added a second condensor fan which is also and option.
3. Modifying the front grill, that is cutting out the center and replacing with wire mesh to create a "Sahara" type grill. I have some extra mesh that I bought for the gutters on my house, and they look to be the perfect size. I need to purchase a cheap grill to experiment with. I know there are forum members who have done this.
I thought about taking the radiator to a radiator shop and inquiring about replacing with more cores(it can be done on some radiators, I just dont know if these can modified)
I would argue about planning to spend 10k in the first several years. It sound like you are more than capable of doing your own repairs and such, and parts are available, if you search.

 

Thanks for the mention, Joe. As for the 170 stat, they should be plentiful.

If you're buying one and talking about immediately dropping in a new engine and a new/rebuilt trans, I would almost look at something like an LS swap. ShadeTree (another forum member) has done one on his truck and was really good at keeping his swap thread updated and full of good info. That would definitely give a boost in reliability and gas mileage. If my engine ever throws a rod or hydrolocks (hopefully not with careful driving and good maintenance), that's what I'll likely do. You'd definitely have to do more fab work and it may even cost slightly more at first (though I think it would be a wash), but it would pay you back over time.

 

Joemamma, Great info thanks. I think the previous poster was thinking over all on the 10K number so I took it that way anyway. I have seen those fan set ups and the electric twin fans seem like a good idea. If I could get rid of the clutch fan it should make the water pumps last a while too?

Alex, I will have to look at that a bit closer as I always figured that route was kind of "experimental"

Again, I appreciate the solid feedback,I hope to make a good decision on this build.

 

If existing engine and trans is basically good condition many of these have gone well over 200k without major issues on original eng/trans which would be at least 25 years for you. Want the latest, greatest and bragging rights dump the bucks on it.
......

 

#9, Could be possible, but in reading through the carfax info, the head gaskets were done at 48K so that is what prompted me to figure the engine into the equation. Looking more to solidify the drive train so when I need it, it will be there. No illusions here, as it does not run, who knows it may be a basket case. If what is there works, great I just want to walk into this kind of prepared for the worst. Thanks for the input.

 

buy a $500 truck not running and put a $5k top hatted engine in it, not my logic.
i would look for one done for $4500