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Chevy engine in Discovery 2 Video

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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 12:32 AM
  #11  
Charlie_V's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Longview, Texas
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There are three versions of the fuel pump (at least) that fit your rover. I'm guessing you originally had a 2000-2002 Disco. Mine is a 2000 and has no return and a pressure sensor. Some don't have a pressure sensor. There is a fuel pump with a return.

Another thought is to use an inline pump and make the existing fuel line a return.

And by the way, THANK YOU for, without fanfare, showing that is not impossible to swap an engine. Naysayers take note.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 11, 2015 at 12:35 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2015 | 05:32 AM
  #12  
drowssap's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Boston Strong
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great job, good choice going with the 4.3
 
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Old Apr 30, 2020 | 01:20 PM
  #13  
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From: Beaumont, TX
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I honestly remember this video! Quality of the video looked so sexy back in the day lol. Every time I've replaced a sensor, or given a LR a tune up I've always reset the adaptive settings (Dealership always did it as the final step besides a test drive). I remember being told the D2 learned how you drove so it "adapted" engine/trans to your driving type.

People can call a RRC/D1/D2 a POS all day long, but just watching that video makes me fall in love with LR's all over again lol.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 01:55 PM
  #14  
Alex_M's Avatar
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From: Southwestern Virginia
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Wow, I can't believe this was 5 years ago.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 04:05 PM
  #15  
604x4BC's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Vancouver, BC
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Hey guys...I'm struggling with the bell housing bolts & wondering if anyone can give me some tips/tricks...
Following the RAVE...I've removed 8 of the 12 bolts you're supposed to remove before getting to the last 2 on top.
I can't see where the other 4 are...and even when located I don't know how the heck I'm supposed to get to them.
I think I've found one of the 4...located on the drivers side on the upper half of the bell housing, but its right up against the body panel and there's no way I can get my ratchet up there..

Any ideas?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 06:49 PM
  #16  
Extinct's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Lynchburg VA
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You have to remove the engine mounts, lower the engine, and then you can reach them.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 06:53 PM
  #17  
keninnc's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Charlotte, NC
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14 Bolts total
 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 06:57 PM
  #18  
keninnc's Avatar
Winching
Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Charlotte, NC
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Bolt locations



 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
D2 transmission bolts.pdf (22.7 KB, 63 views)
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #19  
604x4BC's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Vancouver, BC
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@Extinct Thanks for that tip.. I just watched Atlantic British on YouTube do the same thing.. I wonder why they dont put that step in the manual?
@keninnc That map is perfect! Thanks
Back at it again Tomorrow.. Finally getting this thing out..
 

Last edited by 604x4BC; Aug 26, 2020 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Jun 8, 2023 | 04:06 PM
  #20  
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4wd Low
Joined: Mar 2023
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What is up, fellow LS swappers?!

So I have a cranking question that I am hoping one or more of you may be able to answer. On Cold start, the truck fires up without missing a beat. It also cranks right up if I have been driving, shut it off, and then (somewhat immediately) start it back up. However, if it is good and warmed up and I shut it off and let it sit for any longer than say15 minutes, it takes a good 3-5 seconds of cranking before it fires. Once this has happened and after it is running, I can turn it off and crank it right back up with no issues. There is just something about letting it sit, warm, turned off, for that magical 15+ minute mark that causes the next crank to be long. Anyone else experiencing this kind of "warm start" long crank? It hasn't ever NOT started or left me stranded, but the prolonged cranking is bound to wear the starter out prematurely, I would think.

Otherwise, 3000+ miles on the 6.0 LQ9 swap with no issues! Loving it!

Thanks!
 

Last edited by jershelb; Jun 8, 2023 at 04:10 PM.
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