Classic U joint noise?
Classic U joint noise?
Quick question.
When I'm going about 30mph give or take 5 or even 10 mph,flat ground, and I tap the gas I get a clank and then again when I lift. Sounds like it is coming from the rear. What can I do to try and duplicate it with the wheels in the air or on the ground?
Tanks
When I'm going about 30mph give or take 5 or even 10 mph,flat ground, and I tap the gas I get a clank and then again when I lift. Sounds like it is coming from the rear. What can I do to try and duplicate it with the wheels in the air or on the ground?
Tanks
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
First think I would do would he to drop the shaft and check for problems with it out of the truck.
After that, either have the u-joints and centering ball replaced or check the diffs. Also make sure the diffs and transfer case have enough oil in them.
After that, either have the u-joints and centering ball replaced or check the diffs. Also make sure the diffs and transfer case have enough oil in them.
I would have thought that as well but the sound is pretty clearly from the rear
The one other thing you might want to check (beside the driveshafts u-joints would be the retaining nut on the center shaft in the transfer case and the retaining nut on the rear axle yoke (assuming you are sure it is from the rear).
I recently had a Rover with a bad transfer case - the nut backed off the center shaft in the transfer case, the gear pitch drove the shaft our, and the result was ground up gears. Owner had had the truck 5 years and never had any work done to the transfer case. My guess is someone at the factor just did not peen the nut correctly and over the years it finally worked loose.
Loose yoke nut on the rear axle could allow the bearing preload to come loose, allowing slack between ring and pinion - have seen that once but would not expect it.
Good luck!
I recently had a Rover with a bad transfer case - the nut backed off the center shaft in the transfer case, the gear pitch drove the shaft our, and the result was ground up gears. Owner had had the truck 5 years and never had any work done to the transfer case. My guess is someone at the factor just did not peen the nut correctly and over the years it finally worked loose.
Loose yoke nut on the rear axle could allow the bearing preload to come loose, allowing slack between ring and pinion - have seen that once but would not expect it.
Good luck!
The one other thing you might want to check (beside the driveshafts u-joints would be the retaining nut on the center shaft in the transfer case and the retaining nut on the rear axle yoke (assuming you are sure it is from the rear).
I recently had a Rover with a bad transfer case - the nut backed off the center shaft in the transfer case, the gear pitch drove the shaft our, and the result was ground up gears. Owner had had the truck 5 years and never had any work done to the transfer case. My guess is someone at the factor just did not peen the nut correctly and over the years it finally worked loose.
Loose yoke nut on the rear axle could allow the bearing preload to come loose, allowing slack between ring and pinion - have seen that once but would not expect it.
Good luck!
I recently had a Rover with a bad transfer case - the nut backed off the center shaft in the transfer case, the gear pitch drove the shaft our, and the result was ground up gears. Owner had had the truck 5 years and never had any work done to the transfer case. My guess is someone at the factor just did not peen the nut correctly and over the years it finally worked loose.
Loose yoke nut on the rear axle could allow the bearing preload to come loose, allowing slack between ring and pinion - have seen that once but would not expect it.
Good luck!
I did change the dif oil and TC oil this weekend. All three were full up and looked pretty good. Clank is still there
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,184
Likes: 106
From: Putnam county. NY.
To me it sounds like you have the classic on/off throttle diff clank.
I've got it, but then I also don't. I can drive so it clanks and I can drive so it doesn't clank. My missus hasn't mastered driving without the clank, grr.
Try feathering the throttle very gently as you brake and accelerate. Does it go away?
It's been written up as diff wear, either front or rear.
As mine has gone away (I drive it so it doesn't clank) ive stopped worrying.
Sound familiar? Or am I way off?
I've got it, but then I also don't. I can drive so it clanks and I can drive so it doesn't clank. My missus hasn't mastered driving without the clank, grr.
Try feathering the throttle very gently as you brake and accelerate. Does it go away?
It's been written up as diff wear, either front or rear.
As mine has gone away (I drive it so it doesn't clank) ive stopped worrying.
Sound familiar? Or am I way off?
To me it sounds like you have the classic on/off throttle diff clank.
I've got it, but then I also don't. I can drive so it clanks and I can drive so it doesn't clank. My missus hasn't mastered driving without the clank, grr.
Try feathering the throttle very gently as you brake and accelerate. Does it go away?
It's been written up as diff wear, either front or rear.
As mine has gone away (I drive it so it doesn't clank) ive stopped worrying.
Sound familiar? Or am I way off?
I've got it, but then I also don't. I can drive so it clanks and I can drive so it doesn't clank. My missus hasn't mastered driving without the clank, grr.
Try feathering the throttle very gently as you brake and accelerate. Does it go away?
It's been written up as diff wear, either front or rear.
As mine has gone away (I drive it so it doesn't clank) ive stopped worrying.
Sound familiar? Or am I way off?