Thanks Brandon, I’m doing the timing chain and oil pump rather than the head gaskets, so the oil is already drained, but I think I might do a thorough cleaning job, then do an oil change soon after it’s running (hopefully).

Did you flush the coolant from the block using the square-headed bolts or just flush by pouring distilled water through a high part of the cooing system and letting it pour out from the ports behind the front cover? I’m having a fun enough time with this and even though I’ve got the vehicle on jack stands under the chassis, which supposedly makes it easier to get to those two drain bolts, and, I’d really like to flush out everything that’s in there to avoid contamination or mixing different types of coolant that might be on there, I’m unsure about exactly which bolts they are, how easy they’ll be to get to, and, if I can get them back on without cracking the aluminum block, which is a big concern for me. I couldn’t find a torque spec for those bolts and I’m wondering if it would even flush properly while the front end is lifted up.

I also don’t want to get too much water down below that could cause the ground to shift at all (I’m doing this on the ground rather than concrete - there are plywood plates I made under the jack stands, but it still might cause the ground to give a bit and I don’t want the thing falling). I also don’t want to raise and lower it multiple times since that’s sketchy on the dirt/gravel/mulch and I’ve got it solidly stood up right now. I know some people flush by filling with water, then pulling the lower radiator hose multiple times, but that hose isn’t that easy to get to and after the vehicle has been driven, I don’t want to deal with hot water… I wonder if there’s a better way to drain and flush, maybe with a better radiator that has a drain valve or something like that.