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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 08:22 AM
  #31  
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Yep I'd personally just buy a new one. Even if it was 100.00 that is a heck of a lot cheaper vs an engine!!!!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 11:17 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
Yep I'd personally just buy a new one. Even if it was 100.00 that is a heck of a lot cheaper vs an engine!!!!
That's a fair point. I'm just going to replace everything and see where it goes from there. I'm keeping an eye on the AC condenser as a potential restriction, but apparently that doesn't come cheap anywhere, so that's going in the "next steps" bucket.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 11:19 AM
  #33  
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So you opened the bleed screw with the engine cold and it was full?

 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 11:24 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
So you opened the bleed screw with the engine cold and it was full?
It certainly appeared to be. I could have gotten a funnel and made sure, but it was already dark so I'm putting that off to today.

I'm also going to take the lower radiator shroud off, let it get up to temp for a bit, and then test the top-to-bottom differential again just to be sure. Measure twice, pay once, isn't that the slogan?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 12:33 PM
  #35  
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Less than a few ounces in through the bleed screw hole made a 10 degree difference for me.

 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 12:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dave03S
Less than a few ounces in through the bleed screw hole made a 10 degree difference for me.
I've bled it... what, six times so far? Hopefully if there's still air in the system, there's not that much left, but I'll grab my tiny funnel and make sure.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 01:02 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Jason Feuerstein
Can you explain how you got the side tanks off? I'm assuming it's easier to clean the sludge out that way.
I installed a brand new radiator and was going to throw the old one away. Just out of curiosity I opened it by bending the aluminum fingers holding the plastic piece.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 07:40 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jason Feuerstein
That's fair. So we'll just say that's a no go. Still looking for a way to salvage the radiator I have, but just in case, is this the sort of ebay radiator you're referring to?

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I'm debating whether to remove the radiator from the vehicle and flush separately, or just do the traditional flush/fill with water/drain/fill with coolant method (again). Any recommendations welcome. Or just bite the bullet and replace it.
You can try the flush, but very few liquid supplies will have the gpm flow to actually flush anything. Most of the flow will go through the non-clogged portion. You need pressure to flush the clogged bits out of the tubes.

Yeah, that is one of the affordable ebay ones. After the garden hose test confirms it is radiator and not thermostat that will be the play.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 03:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
You can try the flush, but very few liquid supplies will have the gpm flow to actually flush anything. Most of the flow will go through the non-clogged portion. You need pressure to flush the clogged bits out of the tubes.

Yeah, that is one of the affordable ebay ones. After the garden hose test confirms it is radiator and not thermostat that will be the play.
Well, I would describe the results as inconclusive. The garden hose didn't seem to work at all, but the temps across the radiator still aren't reassuring. What I'm gonna go ahead and do is replace the water pump, do the inline thermostat mod, flush the radiator with a hose and then put an inspection camera in it just to make sure it's clean.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 05:49 PM
  #40  
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The garden hose basically cools the radiator down to 50-60 degrees. If it is still hot with the garden hose, you have a bad thermostat.
 
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