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"clunk" when pressing or releasing the gas pedal while driving

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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:50 AM
  #11  
lr2001silver's Avatar
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The problem is that the bearing behind your output flange is worn allowing play when accelerating, decelerating & touch and goes: mad: its not a impossible task to handle though and this will cure your
" clunk ". Original bearing and has taking its fair share of abuse.


Parts Needed:

*bearing (6207)

*oil seal, genuine (FRC 7043)

*wheel bearing grease

*white lithium grease or graphite grease

*transfer case oil

*Carb cleaner, wire brush or steel wool


Tools Needed:
*slide hammer (optional,but correct tool)

*1/2" ratchet

*6" extension and breaker bar

*floor jack

*Jack stands

*combo wrenches

*flange nut socket

*various sized punches and cold chisel

*long needle-nosed pliers

*large circlip pliers

*bronze hammer

*large screwdrivers
 

Last edited by lr2001silver; Nov 5, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #12  
LADEROUTE's Avatar
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Mudding
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From: Langley B.C.
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Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I knew I was due for a number of different comments as I am trying to explain a sound and looking for an answer in print - kind of like calling your mechanic and hoping they can diagnose over the phone.

I'll crawl under and take a peek, if I see anything out of sorts i will be sure to update.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 04:46 PM
  #13  
lr2001silver's Avatar
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Alot if people go threw this and throw part after part at it but still have the vibe. I have done this process a few times and this always us the culprit.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #14  
binvanna's Avatar
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If you jump off the pedal you do more than simply close the throttle. You also return the transmission kickdown cable to fully retracted. The result is a slammed upshift under the degree of engine braking that the torque converter is allowing based on it's lock state. Because the torque converter locks at higher engine speeds, those conditions will cause the biggest clunk. If you're cruising at 1600 rpm and jump off the pedal, engine braking is minimal when the transmission shifts up hard.

You can diagnose whether it is what I say or a driveline bearing. Put the transmission in "1" so it won't upshift. Drive it up to 4500rpm and jump off the pedal. If it clunks, the driveline may have some slack somewhere. If you just get engine braking and no clunk, then the driveline isn't clunking. Add an upshift during that engine braking and clunk away.
 
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