Clutch fan
Anyone have some insight on engaging the clutch fan at lower rpm’s?
im trying to lower my coolant temperature and I recently had a new clutch fan installed. The previous one wouldn’t engage unless the rpm’s were above 3000 and now it’s engaged around 2500. It lowers the coolant temp when engaged but it’s unrealistic when doing any day to day driving to get it above 2000.
im trying to lower my coolant temperature and I recently had a new clutch fan installed. The previous one wouldn’t engage unless the rpm’s were above 3000 and now it’s engaged around 2500. It lowers the coolant temp when engaged but it’s unrealistic when doing any day to day driving to get it above 2000.
The fan is thermostatically activated, not speed activated. There is a bi-metal spring that changes shape when hot. When it does that it engages the clutch so the fan will pull air through the radiator. If you are correct in your description, it ain't workin' right. If it were to only activate at 3 grand, it would be doing somewhere between little and nothing. When the engine turns at 3000 you almost certainly have air being pushed through the radiator because of your speed running down the road, which is the time that your fan would normally not be called on to do anything. Something is not right.
@Hegarty13 Assuming you engine temp keeps climbing until 2500 to 3000 RPM see the list below but what are your temps ?
Your issue is not the fan clutch, you have 1 of 3 issues :
Bad water pump - the impeller vanes are rotted or otherwise comprised so it takes more RPM to move the same volume of water
Clogged rad - higher RPM can push more water through as it increases the water pressure at low RPM you get poor flow
Bad thermostat - binding or comprised same issue higher RPM allows more water past
You need to actually dig into the problem, not just toss parts at it. Of course it is annoying because there is no simple way with the stock setup.
Your issue is not the fan clutch, you have 1 of 3 issues :
Bad water pump - the impeller vanes are rotted or otherwise comprised so it takes more RPM to move the same volume of water
Clogged rad - higher RPM can push more water through as it increases the water pressure at low RPM you get poor flow
Bad thermostat - binding or comprised same issue higher RPM allows more water past
You need to actually dig into the problem, not just toss parts at it. Of course it is annoying because there is no simple way with the stock setup.
There are tighter engagement fan clutches available. The clutch fan does not engage like a switch but is more gradual. The HD clutches engage a lot more, sounds like a Cessna taking off. BTW, should have our dual electric installation kit launching within a week, just doing the final edits now on the blog post and other content.
GET RID OF IT!
Lol, but seriously, just get rid of it...The clutch fan is simply not capable of keeping the engine cool at the times it actually needs cooling the most. The perfect combo for the D2 to eliminate all cooling concerns, is an E-fan, an inline thermostat and the FlowKooler water pump. The link to DIY E-fan is in my sig. But if you can't DIY, I'm confident that Extinct's kit is gonna be top notch, his stuff always is!
Good luck, and Happy modding
Lol, but seriously, just get rid of it...The clutch fan is simply not capable of keeping the engine cool at the times it actually needs cooling the most. The perfect combo for the D2 to eliminate all cooling concerns, is an E-fan, an inline thermostat and the FlowKooler water pump. The link to DIY E-fan is in my sig. But if you can't DIY, I'm confident that Extinct's kit is gonna be top notch, his stuff always is!
Good luck, and Happy modding
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