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Code HELL...

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Old Apr 3, 2015 | 05:07 PM
  #1  
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Default Code HELL...

Bought the car recently, it was his wife's daily driver. All of a sudden it started throwing codes and sometimes not starting. I have changed the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and the MAF. These are the codes now:

-P0159- lambda sensor aging downstream

-P0156/P0157/P0160- lambda sensor downstream catalyst bank 2

-P0136/P0137P0138- lambda sensor downstream catalyst bank 1-signal implausable/out of range

-P0161- oxy sensor heater downstream cat bank 2

-P0141- oxy sensor heater downstream cat bank 1

-P0130/P0132/P0134-lambda sensor upstream catalyst bank 1- signal implausable/out of range

-P0155- oxy sensor heater upstream cat bank 2

-P0135- oxy sensor heater upstream cat bank 1

-P0150/P0152- lambda sensore upstream catalyst bank 2

-P0340- camshaft sensor fault/valve timing cover

-P0102/P0103- mass air flow sensor fault

-P1451-leakage detection module motor power stage fault

-P0447-Purge canister vent valve/dmtl power stage fault

-P0443/P0444/P0445- Canister purge valve fault(power stage)

DMTL Power Stage

-P0412/P0413/P0414- Secondary air valve power stage fault

Unknown fault code 0056

Car has NOT been sitting, was a daily driver up until I bought it. At this point I'm guessing problem with the harness, but does anybody have any clues as to where? Also, how do I get access to this spot? My guess is behind the driver side head area. I'm lost, HELP!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:13 AM
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dgi 07's Avatar
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Do the Ford wiggle test. It'll take a while, but probably your best bet.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 06:30 AM
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They are all engine related codes and many are interrelated to each other. You need a diagnostic tool and clear them all first then drive it around and see which reappear. It may be a cable harness fault also or even an ECU/ECU plug fault. It's hard to analyse without the diag tool hooked up.

Hell Abran, I'm surprised at you of all people try the ECU plug into the main ECU and remove it and spray with electrical contact spray (REMOVE THE BATTERY TERMINALS FIRST AND DON'T FORGET YOUR RADIO CODE 'COS YOU'LL NEED IT) then remove the main plug to the ECU to engine harness and all the individual plugs and spray them all. Only use electrical contact spray NOT WD 40 or similar as it's corrosive. It sounds like a general fault not individual faults.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Apr 4, 2015 at 06:37 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 07:52 AM
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I vote you clear them and see what comes back
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 08:24 AM
  #5  
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Forgot to mention. I have an Autologic. I tried clearing the codes, but most of them won't clear(a few did but came back after a short drive cycle).

And the service engine soon won't turn off. I actually went to the light testing mode and forced it off just to make sure it's possible but it came right back on.

I'm going to start checking connections, but find it odd that I can't get the light to turn off. In fact at one point I got the codes to clear but the light wouldn't turn off, then the codes came right back.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by abran
Forgot to mention. I have an Autologic. I tried clearing the codes, but most of them won't clear(a few did but came back after a short drive cycle).

And the service engine soon won't turn off. I actually went to the light testing mode and forced it off just to make sure it's possible but it came right back on.

I'm going to start checking connections, but find it odd that I can't get the light to turn off. In fact at one point I got the codes to clear but the light wouldn't turn off, then the codes came right back.
Unfortunately you seemed to have the bases covered and fault checked but now you're into the crappy part of specific fault finding. If you have access to RAVE wiring dias check and print the ECU and harness parts and work through them in logical order checking and starting at the ECU working towards the engine (heck, why I am I teaching you to suck eggs you probably know all this anyways) it's a real bummer fault finding electronics but I cannot think of any easy way to find the problems. The other options is to unplug each sensor in turn and see what that reveals. Good luck, Happy Easter let us know how you get on and what you find.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 09:33 AM
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Gotta think weak signal....connection, short, melted, etc
Not much help ��
 
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 11:50 AM
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Thanks guys.

It's going to be a nightmare. I can't help but think it's s short or some damage to a bundle of wires somewhere.

I'll try disconnecting some of the sensors and cleaning them.

One other tidbit, it has an external head gasket leak. Maybe that coolant is getting into some of the connectors. I'm tempted to do the heads and while they are off, use my new found access to clean all the connections I can get to.

Just not looking forward to buttoning the top end up to find that I stil have the codes...
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 06:25 PM
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Default Rover gods smiled on me?

I'm almost scared to write this.
Started at the fuse box cleaning ground contact points and checking connections. Moved to the connectors on the engine.

Then got to the ground strap at the back of the head... And it was loose. I had already cleared the codes but the SES was still in. Started the car, tried to clear the codes, and the light was still on.

Drove it a mile, stopped and started it back up and the SES light is off.

Checked for codes, none.

Fingers are crossed.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 06:36 PM
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That would do it.
 
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