NGK instructs not to use anti-seize so you don't over tighten.

 

I can't say I've ever had that problem (NGK are the only plugs I run), but I do know what a PITA it is if the threads get stripped. No worries, your call.

 

I always defer to the manufacturer, doesn’t meant they are right all the time. Do you use copper anti-seize?

 

I'm not saying the manufacturer is wrong, only IMHO it's amateur hour if someone over torques a plug due to anti seize. And I'm sure you know to only use a small amount, and keep it off the electrode.

But to answer your question, Copper is fine I like Permatex > https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...ize-lubricant/
OR if not Copper, Permatex > https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...e-lubricant-2/
Both work equally well.

 

I am under the impression the copper stuff is good for heat. I am not anti-seize biggest fan, too gunky and messy, I use high temp grease usually, but have both handy and if it is not a bolt that will come off in foreseeable future I use the anti-seize.

The old plugs came out probably too easily, and you could see that in ignition it appeared that some carbon exhaust was escaping on some cylinders. They’ve not been changed since new motor was put in, and they were Bosch “4” which I did not like the look of.

 

I got the new coilpacks, and wires in today.

I don't think I could have done it without having the intake off. I couldn't even get it back there with the wires installed. My #4 wire somehow got routed weird at some point in install, but is working fine. Routing the wires wasn't too bad. The 8mm fit into the wire holders on the valve cover, and I did have some holders from Summit Racing. I used a 4 wire holder at the back of the engine to get them routed. Make sure to triple check you have the wires completely clicked on. I quadrupled checked to make sure. It's not easy to click them on, there is hardly enough room to do it. Use a sharpie, and write which wire is which at the spark plug end, the Kingsborne wires are labelled at the coil end.

The stock plastic wire holder on the rear of my intake was toast so I tossed it. The old Coilpack was just sitting there, no bolts! There was no where for me to bolt the lower bolt on the coilpack, but I did get the top 2 bolts on. In the rave instructions it said there is a bracket, in my case was.

If you do this job, or will have your intake off, go to Land Rover and get some of the zip clips for the injector wires on the rail. Mine were trashed. I did not have any, so I used some thick zip ties to get them on there.

The intake manifold gasket did not go right on. it was hung up on the guides. I got it started and it must have popped in while I got the intake bolted on.

I used some radiator hose camps, cheapies from amazon, and that was awesome. I did not want to drain the cooling system.

Overall it took me about 6 hours. That includes some cleanup time, and I was not in a hurry.

I was expecting some codes, but none on startup, and none on my test drive.

So far so good!

 

The wires and coil packs have made a big difference. The idle is much more even. Since install the Turner has had a loping idle, but that seems to have evened out with the new coilpacks/wires/plugs.

The throttle response is much better, especially at 2,000 rpm up.

I have to say that the Standard Motor Products coils looked much better than the Bosch and one unmarked coilpack that came out.

 

Yep it’s amazing how a coil pack will just go like the engerizer bunny until over time the spark it makes is so small fuel can’t ignite properly.

That’s why I change em out especially after 150K and you can get both for 50.00. Previous owner of my Kalahari with 230k never changed em, and one day I cranked it up and she was deadly ill lol. Checked the wire, it was ok, checked the plug it was fouled, changed out the crappy bosch 2x plug & no change. Checked spark & it was so tiny and barely there. Swapped both coil packs, wires, and plugs, and it’s champagne idle smooth with 230k and much more responsive.

 

I've always added milk of magnesia to the threads of my spark plugs. It's an old habit from being in the Air Force and working on turbine engines and high operating temperatures.
I'm sure my Disco's engine temperature won't get up to 2500 degrees but stranger things can happen with these beasts....

 

For real? I'm not doubting you, but that's an amazing hack.