Coil under the coil packs?
#1
Coil under the coil packs?
Figured it'd be best to pose the question here. So a little background: 2003 discovery II with 102,000 miles. Rig didn't have maintenance logs when I bought it earlier in the year, so I'm unsure if the head gaskets have been replaced, but it does appear someone's been in there before.
The car started throwing the p0304 code, misfire in cylinder 4. I jumped the gun, ran to napa got new plugs and off the shelf wires....didn't fix the issue :banghead: , then I started reading the forums. Ordered 8mm wires, IM gasket and new coil packs. Finally got the IM off and coil packs only to discover oil under the coil packs and slight oil residue on the IM gasket. Has anyone experienced this before, what was the cause and fix??
The car started throwing the p0304 code, misfire in cylinder 4. I jumped the gun, ran to napa got new plugs and off the shelf wires....didn't fix the issue :banghead: , then I started reading the forums. Ordered 8mm wires, IM gasket and new coil packs. Finally got the IM off and coil packs only to discover oil under the coil packs and slight oil residue on the IM gasket. Has anyone experienced this before, what was the cause and fix??
#3
#4
I agree, that fuel line is pretty janky looking, haha probably not factory spec... I would replace that while your in there before it gives you trouble.
I would almost say you should do the head gaskets if you have the time since you have it striped down that far. However, a full gasket kit and head bolts will be more expensive, and a good amount of extra work.
As far as the oil leak its probably the valve covers or valley pan.
I would almost say you should do the head gaskets if you have the time since you have it striped down that far. However, a full gasket kit and head bolts will be more expensive, and a good amount of extra work.
As far as the oil leak its probably the valve covers or valley pan.
#5
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#7
I wouldn't do the valve springs. You might want to do the valve seals though. I can just about guarantee that your oil separator in the passenger side valve cover is plugged. Extra crankcase pressure will make a real mess. The separator is a cheesy little plastic thing that looks like something from an old Revel model kit, except it costs $5. You have to unscrew the plate in the valve cover to get to it.
#8
I wouldn't do the valve springs. You might want to do the valve seals though. I can just about guarantee that your oil separator in the passenger side valve cover is plugged. Extra crankcase pressure will make a real mess. The separator is a cheesy little plastic thing that looks like something from an old Revel model kit, except it costs $5. You have to unscrew the plate in the valve cover to get to it.
The reason we're going this deep into the motor originally was the misfire code in cylinder 4, figured it's either the spark or the valve is sticking (did find an alarming amount of sludge in the valve covers so I want to cover my basis so I don't have to crack this thing open after I put it all back together. My plan was to replace the valve stem seals as it comes with the gasket kit, put new springs in to eliminate that being the issue, then run BG 44k to clean the rest of the heads/valves as much as possible. (maybe i'm over thinking this)
#9
The breather system uses an oil separator in the capped tube on the passenger side valve cover. It may have come out in pieces so you missed it. Here's what it looks like: Oil Separator - Valve Cover (LLJ000010 Same Fit As Part # LLJ000010 ) - Land Rover miscellaneous from Atlantic British It sits up in that tube. Run Rotella for oil and change it frequently for a while and your sludge should go away. The induction cleaning can be done with Seafoam if you want.