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Coil under the coil packs?

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  #21  
Old 10-13-2014, 06:08 PM
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Brass brush, elbow grease and commercial grade degreaser

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  #22  
Old 10-13-2014, 06:17 PM
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Mystery to what happened in #7, checked the rods and found no marring. Then again, this motor has been rebuilt prior to my ownership

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After running through over $50 bucks in degreaser and carb cleaner, I found this stuff works wonders and for $10 bucks at depot it makes 25 gallons

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Cleaned and painted the rocker covers

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  #23  
Old 10-13-2014, 06:23 PM
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Cleaned up the rockers, shaft, valve hats/retainers
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  #24  
Old 10-13-2014, 06:57 PM
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it looks as if something strange happen to number 7 at so time in its past. Does the cam or lifters look newer?
 
  #25  
Old 10-13-2014, 07:22 PM
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The tappets are still true and flat, rods looked fine, no visible issues with the cam from a top view while cranking it around
 
  #26  
Old 10-13-2014, 07:56 PM
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As far as the fuel line is concerned the repair job the PO did doesn't look bad but he shouldn't have used worm clamps you need fuel line hose clamps. That's what makes it a potential hazard. If he tightened the hose clamps too much he may have damaged the hose. It's worth checking. If you need to replace the hose you can get 5/16 high pressure fuel line hose from autozone. That's the only hose that will suffice anything else is unsafe. But you probably know this.

I speak from repairing my fuel line twice.
 

Last edited by DiscoRover007; 10-13-2014 at 08:03 PM.
  #27  
Old 10-13-2014, 08:04 PM
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I can't think of any type of failure that would result in the damage to the block by cylinder 7. That looks like the chuck of a drill or something. Very strange.

Your thermostat looks like a 190 or a motorad. I had the motorad 180 in my truck and just swapped it for an LR 180 and my temps dropped another 8 to 10 degrees. It was running around 195 to 200, now it never goes over 190. Your tee looks new also. Did you put that together?
 
  #28  
Old 10-14-2014, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoRover007
As far as the fuel line is concerned the repair job the PO did doesn't look bad but he shouldn't have used worm clamps you need fuel line hose clamps. That's what makes it a potential hazard. If he tightened the hose clamps too much he may have damaged the hose. It's worth checking. If you need to replace the hose you can get 5/16 high pressure fuel line hose from autozone. That's the only hose that will suffice anything else is unsafe. But you probably know this.

I speak from repairing my fuel line twice.
Thanks for the insight, that's on my list to correct before I get this buttoned back up.
 
  #29  
Old 10-14-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 04duxlr
I can't think of any type of failure that would result in the damage to the block by cylinder 7. That looks like the chuck of a drill or something. Very strange.

Your thermostat looks like a 190 or a motorad. I had the motorad 180 in my truck and just swapped it for an LR 180 and my temps dropped another 8 to 10 degrees. It was running around 195 to 200, now it never goes over 190. Your tee looks new also. Did you put that together?
yeah, I couldnt figure it out either....very strange

As for the stat, I ordered the one listed as a 180 Motorad off of rock auto, along with a nissen rad and expansion cap. I'll monitor the temps on the ultra gauge when I get this back together and report back. I did make the t fitting, home depot special
 
  #30  
Old 10-14-2014, 02:22 PM
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I wonder if the block was misshapen in that area when it was cast and when they machined the lifter bores it got "clearance" by the boring head.
 


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