So the saga continues...

Front of the block stripped down, new cam and crank sprocket and new timing chain





Bottom right bolt snapped off when I was torquing them all in, had to strip everything back down. Check out the bottom left bolt, it was on its way out too, weird how it tapered

 

Once that was buttoned up, time to test the block however I couldn't get it to build pressure for the life of me, kept leaking out of the welded pump. After fitting it with a gasket and sealant, leaked, pulled it back off and really caked on the sealant then torqued it back down, still leaked. Pulled it back off and cleaned off the paper gasket and sealant to discover the pump housing was slightly wrapped. Talked to abran and we concluded the manufacture probably didn't machines the mating faces after welding up the unit. Figured the welding heat caused it to warp.

At this point, I'm going to take a gamble as winter is right around the corner and I'm under a crunch. Hopefully the block is good, if not I just hope it lasts till the snow melts next season



absurd amount of sealant, but it was determined to get this to work the second time around


No dice


Issue with the welded pump




vs the actual pump for comparison


Few more

 

In all her glory at the muddy chef challenge circa Aug 2014.

 

That's outrageous. At the price they are charging for that test kit they should at least check to see it will work.

Abran should be ashamed of himself! What kind of rental operation is he running? (Just kidding). You can test each side separately if you make one plate for the face where the pump goes or maybe you can cap the inlet on your water pump.

 

it will probably be the first time a machine shop will be asked to deck a water pump

 

Dat compression ratio doe.

 

Quick question, when fitting the new STI 8mm wires to the new aftermarket coil packs that British parts of utah sells, I noticed they did not click in. Upon further inspection it appears the original bosch coil packs have a smaller diameter brass pin in each coil opening, the new ones are silver and slightly bigger....thoughs / recommendations? Can of make the opening on the spark plug wire slightly larger?

I'll get pics tonight

 

got some new bolts, tapped all the head bolts holes and timing cover bolt holes and fitted the heads








set the heads on


dry fit the intake to ensure the proper mounting of the heads - thanks to the wisdom learned on the forums

 

push rods and tappets assembled



new valley pan gaskets kit installed, manifold installed and fuel line fixed with high pressure fuel clamps

 

then the fun begin, turns out the replacement 'britpart' coil packs have slightly larger connections than the ones I pulled off the truck (one was a Bosch OEM and the other is aftermarket). So the wires weren't clicking when pressed in. Pulled it all back off for a closer inspection as seen below. Solution was just to roll the boot back and manually press each one in, it slightly opened the female end of the wire.













The pup wondering why in the hell I've been spending so much time sitting in the engine bay


The garage is still in shambles


Starting to look like an engine again