...and if you have small hands, all the better. Over the years, my thin frame and small hands have been put to great use when big beefy guys couldn't reach something because of their bulk.

 

UGH, that stinks. So it started just fine and drove and then this again? Sounds fishy to me. Can you test it quickly for a spark? Also, and others will know better, but the inertia switch (I think that is what it is) under the hood on the firewall, does that kill everything or will it crank? Bad connection maybe?

 

Went out an tried again...it just started. Drove about 3 miles, and Flashing M & S and CEL. Returned home and now showing these codes...
Erratic idle also.

p1884
p1536
p1590
p0154
p0335
p0155

 

UGH again. Was it in limp mode? Maybe you ran down the battery a little? I'm wondering if there is a short in general. Do you have a voltmeter you can test the alt output from?

 

1536 - low voltage detected for air conditioning clutch circuit (detection trips a less than 2/3 normal battery volts.

1590 - error in reading of signal from SLABS/ABS control module

0335 - Crank Position Sensor reference mark outside normal boundary, it can't be reliable when it tells ECU where crankshaft is, this determines timing.

0155 - Bank 2 front O2 sensor, problem with heater circuit of sensor

0154 - Bank 2 Front O2 sensor, no activity detected, wiring problem

1884 - CAN message from transmission ECU (can be multiple things) including low volts to transmission ECU.

These codes are related by voltage or ground points. Please open the underhood fuse box and check all main cables at the front (clean and tight). Check battery (volts if you have a meter - and they are cheap and easy to use). Follow the (-) big battery cable and be sure the places where it bonds to the chassis are also clean and tight.

Some of these codes are "two drive cycle" style, so clear them and they may caome back in a day or so.

The crank position sensor however, does not depend on voltage. It actually generates a signal from the teeth flying by just about 2 mm away. Your sensor is very close to not allowing you to crank the truck. If you replace it, be sure to put spacers back just like they come off. And plugging it in and letting it hang while refit may may be easier.

But I think you have the multi-volume set of Murphy's Law, and more than one problem.

 

Send me your number and I'll call you in the morning to walk you thru this.
The 1884 code you got is not the problem, nor is the gas other then it should be 91 plus.

 

Your battery voltage is to low, you need to throw the battery charger on it for the night and then have the battery and alternator tested.
One or the other is on its way out.
All of those codes and symptoms are from low battery voltage.

 

Same thing happend to my wife and I the other day and it sounds a lot like your issue. It turned out to be the crank sensor. We changed it ourselves and she was helping through the whole thing because she has small arms to get in the tight places. You can for sure do this job if you take your time. Anyway if it turns out to be the crank sensor I took some pictures and notes that might help.

Here is the thread if you wanted to look- https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...highway-46761/

 

Alternator and battery checked out fine. I was able to find the CPS at the local Autozone today (SU5570). Side note, when removing the old CPS, seems it had been replaced before. There were no spacers, bolts all the way down, which required a deep 8mm socket.

After the replacement, started right up. Test drive was good, and is a bit more responsive.

Thanks to all that chimed in to assist, your time is greatly appreciated !!!

 

^^ I glad the new CPS fixed you car.

I found a mechanic to come to my house to change the CPS for $80 labor. So I hope this solves the problem. He also said I might need a tune up.

Its too icy outside for me to attempt repairing this by myself. Maybe in the summer I will buy some tools.