Ok so I've been hoping this wasnt the case but I think I'm going to have to take the plunge. Please confirm my suspicions and set me straight.

Symptoms:
-seeping coolant from hose clamps (brand new upper hoses)
-system under lots of pressure (hoses are pretty hard to squeeze warmed up)
-losing coolant but not dripping (except for a tiny bit at clamps as mentioned above)
-lots of water in oil (yes I know main bearings but one pain at a time please)
-frothy green nasty scum on my oil cap

Recent work: I had an outer front cover gasket leak a few months ago that also broke into the inside after it was parked luckilly so it never ran with all the water in it. Drained all my oil plus about 2 gallons of water before dropping the oil pan and fixing the gasket. Since then the truck has run great until the other day I noticed the coolant was low (UG shot up to 210!) I added coolant and today it dropped again. I checked the oil when I got home and it was milky so I did an "emergency" oil change pending plans for a permanent fix.

I really cant do any work on it for another 2 weeks but only need about 9 days of driving during that time. Would stop leak hold me off until then or would it cause more problems than it's worth?

 

It could be your timing cover.

Or it could be your head gaskets.

 

Sorry.
I would shut it down and start the tear down.

If I did it in a parking lot - you can do it in your warm garage.

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

It has all the hallmarks of a head gasket problem or perforated block. Water doesn't get into oil and vice versa unless things are going/gone badly wrong. Best get checked over and a professional opinion, then if it's bad news, start the monotonous stripping down. Good luck.

PS don't drive the truck around as it will only get far worse and damage more internal engine parts.

 

It has happened before that folks have misread a bad timing cover gasket for a blown head gasket.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post379879

The symptoms are very similar, and since you recently did timing cover work (the "front cover gasket"), it could easily be that you did something wrong.

I'd rent a pressure tester (Advance Auto Parts has one that fits the Disco) and test the system to see if you can tell what's happening. It may not help, but it's all I can think of to try to isolate where the problem is.

 

Meh, it's probably just a fuse..
Good luck with a speedy and worry free recovery

 

Inspect comparing each spark plug for uniformity looks and come back with findings. If all are equally fine, there is still a chance of head gasket or other leak from coolant-to-oil passages.

If you are in the mood, as the spark plugs are out, insert an aquarium hose into the combustion chambers and suck by mouth looking for coolant pooled in the lowest point of the piston tops.

Draining the (heavier) coolant off the oil pan will tell how much coolant was dumped there and would speed up the coolant removal from the oil by running the engine into hot : If I were you and suspect/know coolant everywhere oils is, run the engine without capping the coolant until boils for several minutes as soon as possible = now !. That will expel coolant vapor from the oil. Leave uncapped until cools down to prevent coolant pressure to inject more into the oil. It will lessen the prolongued contact of water and rust prone critical surfaces.

If the open coolant reservoir bubbles even when idling cold; yes, you have a bad head gasket case.

 

I rebuilt my entire engine from ground up. Had every thing resurfaced cleaned, head gasket was no prob. Just use a cheater pipe to get head bolts done.

 

Mr Br0kit,
I think that diagnosing and pondering will not help. Nor will staring at the engine.

You just gotta get down and into it.

I would start by pulling off the fan.
Then the ps pump.
Then all the pulleys and all that stuff.
Pull off the alternator and pull the battery.

Worst part is getting off the air injection pipes.
Once those are off -
6 bolts holding on the intake plenum.
And the air injection wish bone in the back has bolts into the plenum.

Drain the coolant out.

Once you get the plenum off -


and the intake off - you are on your way.
Intake clips onto a fuel line - push collar back and pull the line out.
Careful on that one.

Take off the valve covers.
Take off the exhaust manifold bolts from the manifold to the head - and that's it.

Remove the rocker arms.

Now you need a 5/8" BLACK impact socket to remove the head bolts.
You will need a sturdy breaker bar and a pipe to slip over it for leverage.

Loosen the head bolts opposite of the pattern for putting them on.

Heads will pretty much then lift off.

Clean the deck.
Clean the heads and get them inspected.

Use a good Victor Reinz gasket set for the heads.

Get new head bolts

Paint the top of the head bolt with a stripe.

Use the pattern

First 15 lbs around the pattern.

Then 90 degrees round the pattern with breaker bar and pipe.
Then 90 again round the pattern - with breaker bar and pipe.

Put in the push rods.
Put on the rocker arms.
Put in new valve cover gaskets (hard to do).

New valley gasket.

Intake on.

Tighten in pattern with torque wrench.

 

Thanks all for the advice. I'm really hoping I can do this quickly. I've been as far down as the VP gasket when I replaced a lower IM due to a snapped bolt that didn't drill out. I also, as mentioned above, replaced the front cover gasket that was leaking externally about 2 months ago. I was hoping it would be leaning more toward a botched front cover job than HGs as while that was a PITA (especially that useless cross member), it is much cheaper for a gasket.

Also being my only vehicle I'm worried it'll take more than a few long hour days on a weekend to do.

For the HG when I get it I'll probably get studs as I hear they require less torque (so less chance to strip), and don't ever need to be replaced. Also lucky for me I have a 2000 so no stupid useless SAI to deal with though that's not to say the job still wont suck.