New headgaskets, still getting coolant in the oil
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Coolant in oil after head gasket replacement
I see this happened a year ago and you probably fixed this a by now but I thought I would update the thread with my experience since I was experiencing the same symptoms.
My 03 Discovery overheated and after I pulled over and filled the coolant, I checked the dipstick and the oil was milky with no external leaks....other cars I've owned meant this was a broken head or intake gasket. I tore the engine down and took the heads in to be checked....no cracks and milled and installed with new gaskets. When I filled the fluids, oil was still milky and coolant was draining into the pan rapidly. I thought I cracked the block and took it to a pro to be checked. I didn't think there was any other place that coolant could get into the oil system. I was wrong....it was the timing cover gasket. Cost me $1,500....i broke the fuel line & had the pro replace it with the timing cover gasket. A fuel line cost $120 on ebay and the timing gasket $15. I spent $100 on a head & intake gasket set, $50 on new head bolts, $120 on head resurfacing, and $50 on fluids & filter. I wish I would have just changed the $15 timing cover gasket. I ended up $2,000 all together. Ouch....and probably only needed a new timing cover gasket that would have been less than $100 to fix.
Question:
I knew that the cooling system was internally leaking into the oil system. How can one do a check to isolate the problem as a timing cover gasket instead of just jumping into a costly head gasket replacement?
My 03 Discovery overheated and after I pulled over and filled the coolant, I checked the dipstick and the oil was milky with no external leaks....other cars I've owned meant this was a broken head or intake gasket. I tore the engine down and took the heads in to be checked....no cracks and milled and installed with new gaskets. When I filled the fluids, oil was still milky and coolant was draining into the pan rapidly. I thought I cracked the block and took it to a pro to be checked. I didn't think there was any other place that coolant could get into the oil system. I was wrong....it was the timing cover gasket. Cost me $1,500....i broke the fuel line & had the pro replace it with the timing cover gasket. A fuel line cost $120 on ebay and the timing gasket $15. I spent $100 on a head & intake gasket set, $50 on new head bolts, $120 on head resurfacing, and $50 on fluids & filter. I wish I would have just changed the $15 timing cover gasket. I ended up $2,000 all together. Ouch....and probably only needed a new timing cover gasket that would have been less than $100 to fix.
Question:
I knew that the cooling system was internally leaking into the oil system. How can one do a check to isolate the problem as a timing cover gasket instead of just jumping into a costly head gasket replacement?
Last edited by sanrover; Feb 20, 2013 at 08:37 PM.
If you had intermixing chances are the seal in the t-stat is now swollen and coolant isnt flowing either. Might want to look into replacing that too. Motorad 180 degree one is what I am running.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
About $9. Would wonder if you would have seen it using a pressure tester for coolant and having the oil pan off?
But look at it this way, you most likely would have needed a new HG at some point anyway.
5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5
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The pro knew that I did the head and intake gaskets. He said that it would be nearly impossible for coolant to drain that fast into the pan from the areas I repaired. He is a rover specialist and had seen this circumstance before.
I don't think there is any exact way to isolate the cause of an internal coolant leak...head gasket, intake gasket, timing cover gasket, or cracked block. Chevy 350's didn't have any coolant channels passing through the timing cover and that is my most experience in engine repair. I had no idea that rovers do and it is an area to consider.
My advice is that if you are getting coolant in your oil from an internal leak you might consider to first try the timing cover gasket as it is a cheaper and quicker repair attempt. If it doesn't stop the coolant leaking into the oil, then crack the heads. It wouldn't be bad idea to have updated the timing cover gasket anyway, even if a head job is what was needed.
I thank the rover gods that my block was not cracked.
I don't think there is any exact way to isolate the cause of an internal coolant leak...head gasket, intake gasket, timing cover gasket, or cracked block. Chevy 350's didn't have any coolant channels passing through the timing cover and that is my most experience in engine repair. I had no idea that rovers do and it is an area to consider.
My advice is that if you are getting coolant in your oil from an internal leak you might consider to first try the timing cover gasket as it is a cheaper and quicker repair attempt. If it doesn't stop the coolant leaking into the oil, then crack the heads. It wouldn't be bad idea to have updated the timing cover gasket anyway, even if a head job is what was needed.
I thank the rover gods that my block was not cracked.
Last edited by sanrover; Feb 21, 2013 at 02:44 PM.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
The water also passes thru the timing chain assy cover.
That is probably where the problem now is.
Because - you have eliminated everything else.
Get a mechanics mirror and look at the valley gasket.
Or, park it on a HILL with the front facing DOWN and the coolant should run to the front of the valley gasket on top - maybe.
But I bet it is a timing chain cover assy problem now.
That area tends to throw a lot of coolant into the oil.
You'll be wasting your main bearing too as antifreeze ruins them.
Sorry for that comment but...
That is probably where the problem now is.
Because - you have eliminated everything else.
Get a mechanics mirror and look at the valley gasket.
Or, park it on a HILL with the front facing DOWN and the coolant should run to the front of the valley gasket on top - maybe.
But I bet it is a timing chain cover assy problem now.
That area tends to throw a lot of coolant into the oil.
You'll be wasting your main bearing too as antifreeze ruins them.
Sorry for that comment but...
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 28
From: Charlotte, NC
I bought the truck with 90k miles with an overheating problem. No big deal, so I think. Put a battery in it and replaced the upper radiator hose that was stuffed in the clutch fan.
Thought I was in the clear and paid 900 dollars for a disco with 90k mint condition that just had a hole in a hose. Negative. Drove it to work that day and the truck overheated right before i got to the shop (about 13 miles from my house). Heat stopped working and gauge started rising. Made me think hmm still losing coolant. Checked the level and it was about a gallon low. Filled it up and drove it home. Same deal, low coolant and now the oil is emulsified.
Popped the heads off, had them refaced .010. Replaced headgaskets, etc. Put it back together. Truck ran good from the get go, only having the leak, causing it to overheat. Started right up, no more check engine light. Took it for about a 10-15 mile drive and the truck starts to overheat once again. CEL comes back on. Pulled the dipstick and clearly there is still coolant in the oil.
I did the chemical test and that came up clean. So now im thinking where can water get into my oil so rapidly besides my head gasket. Brought me to my timing cover. Im not leaking any coolant or oil externally. Is it possible that my timing cover could be causing my issue?
I did not seal anything with any kind of sealer when i assembled the intake manifold and plenum...just new gaskets. could this also be the cause of a internal leak? That could also be maybe why im losing it internally but not getting hydrocarbons in my cooling system.
Any Input would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Thought I was in the clear and paid 900 dollars for a disco with 90k mint condition that just had a hole in a hose. Negative. Drove it to work that day and the truck overheated right before i got to the shop (about 13 miles from my house). Heat stopped working and gauge started rising. Made me think hmm still losing coolant. Checked the level and it was about a gallon low. Filled it up and drove it home. Same deal, low coolant and now the oil is emulsified.
Popped the heads off, had them refaced .010. Replaced headgaskets, etc. Put it back together. Truck ran good from the get go, only having the leak, causing it to overheat. Started right up, no more check engine light. Took it for about a 10-15 mile drive and the truck starts to overheat once again. CEL comes back on. Pulled the dipstick and clearly there is still coolant in the oil.
I did the chemical test and that came up clean. So now im thinking where can water get into my oil so rapidly besides my head gasket. Brought me to my timing cover. Im not leaking any coolant or oil externally. Is it possible that my timing cover could be causing my issue?
I did not seal anything with any kind of sealer when i assembled the intake manifold and plenum...just new gaskets. could this also be the cause of a internal leak? That could also be maybe why im losing it internally but not getting hydrocarbons in my cooling system.
Any Input would be appreciated.
Thank you.
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