I cut the cross member itself, my frame is not rusted because there is so many oil leaks the whole undercarriage is coated with oil.

 

Yep it does a fantastic job of keeping the broken shaft bouncing around into the transmission and floor. It also will snag on the drive shaft at any kind of articulation after a lift of any kind.

It’s like an “what brand oil” argument or is RHD or LHD the correct side to have a steering wheel on... If I had noticed any change, or seams not lining up after a dirt road, I’d say keep it, but nada zip nothing.

 

Old post... I know...
I found this online if any one wants to fab their own D2 crossmember spacers...

 

I lowered mine 1.5 inches
gives plenty of room for full articulation on a 3 inch lift

 

I also removed mine completely. I have a rust free frame but 4/8 bolts snapped. Driver side all came out fine, and the passenger side all of the bolts snapped.

If you go with new O2 sensors, I've been using Walkers on all of my trucks for a couple years now. Great price point and I haven't had one fail yet.

 

I just had to remove mine to do a 3" lift as i could not get the front axle to drop enough to get the springs out. So I am looking to put like a 1-2" spacer between the crossmember and Frame to give the axles that much additional articulation. So no issues to NOT reinstalling it structure wise? I am going to put it back just wanted to hear opinions if relatively safe to drive and with a little bit of off road, without it in place?

 

i have one '04 with the cross member and one with out. i drive both on road and off road and have not noticed a difference.

 

How many RRC/D1/D90's have blown out massive holes in their transmissions due to front drive shaft failures vs a D2? I honestly haven't seen a single one. Main difference is of coarse the drive shaft design, but all drive shafts = fail no matter what U Joints can and will fail especially sealed ones when they run dry. However the other main difference is a RRC/D1/D90 does not have the front frame support, so in the event a drive shaft fails it has time to drop clear of the vehicle vs dropping then bouncing off the frame support and smashing straight into the transmission housing.

I have owned plenty of D2's in my day and one of them has battle scars of a close encounter with a drive shaft (happened before I owned it and I saw the new drive shaft and dents in the floor/transmission pan when I was looking at it). I have always removed the front support because all but 1 of my D2's over the years have all been lifted at least 2-3inches. Once you do that ANY off roading whatsoever = front drive shaft rest on the front support which will damage the front drive shaft. Sure you can slap on 1-2inch spacers but now you've just created a large piece of metal which is going to get caught on anything off road and it basically ruins any advantages the lift gave you in the first place. Reminds me of my Jeep TJ/LJ days with the massive stock belly pan which held the transmission/transfer case. If you did a 4inch lift you would "lower" the belly pan which sure corrected your drive line angles, but it put you basically back at the same height you started out with. The BEST THING I ever did with my TJ/LJ's was a tummy tuck as they called it. Under Cover Fab works sold this awesome aluminum belly pan in 3 (Stock/2inches shorter/100% flat) different heights. Once I installed that 2inch shorter belly pan the difference off road was AMAZING!!!! I never high centered in the mud (original belly pan acted like a massive shovel), and I never got rocks under it enough to high center either. Same principal applies to the LR and that front frame support. If lifted REMOVE it and do yourself a huge favor!! If you slap on those $$$ spacers don't get upset when you go out and get stuck due to that thing dragging on rocks, or getting you high centered.

 

Remove it

 

+1 on that. Remove it. I removed mine 2 yrs ago. No issues.