I ordered a prop shaft spacer from lucky 8 also. Not sure if that would help.

 

Okay, so had to try it! Love it and it looks great, the drive is much smoother for some reason. I put the prop shaft spacer in and prop shaft is sitting pretty stock except for the angle. My biggest concern is how close the shaft sits to the frame support bar. I can barely get my finger between them. I thought I read someone saying they removed the support bar.

 

you pretty much have to remove it or space it out with that much lift. Any sort of droop and it will come into contact...no adverse effects to pulling it.

 

not true. I don’t rub on 33’s with 4in hd springs

 

Ok some of these commenters don’t have more than 3in of lift so keep that in mind. I’m on 4in hd springs with 33’s bfg ko and I have no rubbing issues. These springs are @ 4.5 lift WITH my hd bumpers and without a load

I don’t have cranked caster arms and while it’s floaty, it’s still perfectly fine on highway

BUT: I have, double, double cardan front and double cardan rear with u joint conversion

i have fox 10in travels as well.

the only thing I don’t like is when loaded with camping gear, it sits lower in the rear. I’m going to get a 1in spacer
fpr the rear.

I recently went to GARR and there were more than a couple D2, and D1 running 4in front springs and 5in rear springs OR 3,4, 5 in springs And a 1in spacer in rear

 

Couple questions? If I swapped out the 3 u joints on the front prop shaft with some heavy duty ones would that compare with the Tom Woods shaft at all? I have added a spacer to the shaft from Lucky 8 to reduce length.

Also with the 6 degree radius arms up front would that help in a way to put less angle on the prop shaft?

Gonna do the radius arms either way and will need to do something about the front shaft considering there is no nips on the u joints.

 

I had a different experience with a 3" lift and steelies and 33s. If on stock wheels the offset is much more forgiving to the body work...Also not all sliders stop at the same point.