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Coolant Change/Radiator Swap

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  #31  
Old 04-25-2011, 10:33 AM
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Picture for you, note the 2 hoses marked with a yellow O. They are both at a high point on the engine so you are not going to loose much coolant if you pop them off. Note how they cross over to the back for when you attach them again.
 
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  #32  
Old 04-25-2011, 02:07 PM
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I have 138,000 and had it for around 2 to 2 1/2 years. Before the radiator went out I heard for the longest time the washing water sound in the floor board or dash area. I know that means air is trapped so yeah.
 
  #33  
Old 04-25-2011, 09:38 PM
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Ok so I tried to get those two hoses off and they were stuck on like gorilla glue or something. lol. I had the idea to drain all the coolant out of the radiator again from the bottom radiator hose and take off the top hose too. Of course all the coolant left the reservoir. I ran a water hose from the top and let it drain through the bottom of the radiator for about 5 to 10 minutes. I then put all the hoses back together and loosened the bleeder cap and started filling the reservoir with coolant. i got 1 gallon in and it became full again, I raised the reservoir and was able to get the coolant to go down halfway on the reservoir and was able to pour more coolant in but then coolant stayed full this time and would not go down. I then left the reservoir cap off and turned the engine over and let it run and left the bleeder cap loose until coolant started to flow out, then i tightned the bleeder cap and waited for the coolant in the reservoir to go down but nothing. I also had the heater on which was blowing hot air at this time but the coolant would not go down any. So the system would only take about a gallon and a half and thats it. No three gallons. WTH? Someone help here? I even tried to park the nose in the air and see if that would help and nothing at all.

Any ideas? Any other ways to bleed the system? C'mon I know everyone cant leave Bundu with this issue all by himself and thank you Bundu for all your help so far. Im pretty sure its a a bunch of air or something but damn, somethings gotta give here. Should I fill it and drive it till it gets almost all the way hot and then shut it off and let it cool down and see if the coolant is not in the reservoir and see if this lets me put more coolant in? Where is Disco Mike at? Anybody willing to talk over the phone? Help help help. Oh yeah I gotta buy a new bleeder screw because mine broke. yep
 
  #34  
Old 04-26-2011, 05:53 AM
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A few things you might consider:

Was the block completely drained? Just because you pulled the hoses and radiator does not mean the block was completely drained, it could easily hold a gallon + or - of water/coolant.

Were you have heat it eliminates a lot of the air bound problems, usually the heater core gets air bound. But you would have no heat or a gurgling coming from the dash.

You have checked the T-stat to be sure it is flowing? To get a new t-stat that is bad is not uncommon from what I have heard.

When I did mine I replaced the all the hoses so it was simple for me to pull the heater hose and use my pressure/radiator tester to push the air/ water out of the heater hose.

I also found that you have to lift the reservoir “just right” on my truck too low it would not drain too high and it would kink the bottom drain hose and would not drain.

Good luck
 

Last edited by drowssap; 04-26-2011 at 09:59 AM.
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