Coolant flying all over the place this morning!
what is the difference between while and whilst?
Both while and whilst have been in the language for a very long time. While was in use in Old English; whilst is a Middle English development of while. As conjunctions they are interchangeable in meaning, but whilst has not survived in standard American English.
Both while and whilst have been in the language for a very long time. While was in use in Old English; whilst is a Middle English development of while. As conjunctions they are interchangeable in meaning, but whilst has not survived in standard American English.
It comes up sometimes in our favorite "Brit Lit", the RAVE, which translates to "Rovers A'int Very Economical" or some such.
You can imagine a refined English gentleman speaking to his mechanic:
"I say my good man, whilst continuing here on the motorway the machine developed a violent rocking so intense I fouled my knickers"
Translated - the Death Wobble struck and my Depends held their own!
You can imagine a refined English gentleman speaking to his mechanic:
"I say my good man, whilst continuing here on the motorway the machine developed a violent rocking so intense I fouled my knickers"
Translated - the Death Wobble struck and my Depends held their own!
WHILST is a quality term that I use from time to time in my writings! 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I wish I could bypass it, but living in mid-Michigan, I don't believe it to be a good idea. I ordered the part from AB, and when I replace it I'll make sure to get the clamps on good and tight, like Coyote said!
Great forum!

Thanks for all the suggestions. I wish I could bypass it, but living in mid-Michigan, I don't believe it to be a good idea. I ordered the part from AB, and when I replace it I'll make sure to get the clamps on good and tight, like Coyote said!
Great forum!
Remove the Dexcool? Go with the green stuff? I'm mildly familiar with the debate, but what are your reasons for this advice?
The Dexcool, if not changed frequently, or if exposed to air, or if contaminated with other coolants (top up by the Iffy Lube oil shop) changes into a "mud" in the lower rows of radiator, and can decompose the coolant cap as well. One way to eval radiator is to warm up truck, cut engine, and use an IR thermometer to "see" the temp of the radiator fins top to bottom. If lower rows are 10F cooler, then something is restricting their flow. Pix on left is a Rover rad with normal coolant buildup from lack of change, little parts of calcium from use of non-distilled water, etc. Dexmud has mud plus the chunks.
Most people don't flush coolant every two years and use a chemical flush when doing it. And the LR3 gang gets told to leave it in there 10 years or 150,000 (which is fine with Robin Bastid down at the repair shop, warranty is long over by then).
Most people don't flush coolant every two years and use a chemical flush when doing it. And the LR3 gang gets told to leave it in there 10 years or 150,000 (which is fine with Robin Bastid down at the repair shop, warranty is long over by then).
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Aug 9, 2013 at 11:22 AM.
The Dexcool, if not changed frequently, or if exposed to air, or if contaminated with other coolants (top up by the Iffy Lube oil shop) changes into a "mud" in the lower rows of radiator, and can decompose the coolant cap as well. One way to eval radiator is to warm up truck, cut engine, and use an IR thermometer to "see" the temp of the radiator fins top to bottom. If lower rows are 10F cooler, then something is restricting their flow. Pix on left is a Rover rad with normal coolant buildup from lack of change, little parts of calcium from use of non-distilled water, etc. Dexmud has mud plus the chunks.
Most people don't flush coolant every two years and use a chemical flush when doing it. And the LR3 gang gets told to leave it in there 10 years or 150,000 (which is fine with Robin Bastid down at the repair shop, warranty is long over by then).
Most people don't flush coolant every two years and use a chemical flush when doing it. And the LR3 gang gets told to leave it in there 10 years or 150,000 (which is fine with Robin Bastid down at the repair shop, warranty is long over by then).
I don't want to cause any harm to the engine or radiator. What type of chemical flush is recommended with a coolant flush?
Here is a GM TSB on how to remove old Dexcool, just don't refill with it.
It is important to note that even without Dexcool radiators can build up scale and calcium, use of tap water, and the worst - well water (high mineral content) will do it. Near me part of the city water comes from the Savannah River, and what comes out goes back into the river in four hours based on use of the large factories. The rest of town gets water from deep wells. So on that side of town everyone's window glass has calcium buildup from washing the car at home, etc. Same way on the resort islands near me, most have deep well water systems. I have my own well and don't use it in the vehicles. Distilled water is about $1 a gallon.
The pre mix stuff avoids this problem and is a good general ratio. Below like 40% the anti-corrosion drops off, and above 60% the heat transfer suffers. A guy I know that has a tire store also has an expensive hobby - dirt track racing around the Southeast, about $85K tied up in the car; they run 100% coolant, so they can not boil at 300F, and because it is dirt track no issue with coolant leaks and slick spots. But Rover aluminum engine likes to run cool for long life away from repair shops.
It is important to note that even without Dexcool radiators can build up scale and calcium, use of tap water, and the worst - well water (high mineral content) will do it. Near me part of the city water comes from the Savannah River, and what comes out goes back into the river in four hours based on use of the large factories. The rest of town gets water from deep wells. So on that side of town everyone's window glass has calcium buildup from washing the car at home, etc. Same way on the resort islands near me, most have deep well water systems. I have my own well and don't use it in the vehicles. Distilled water is about $1 a gallon.
The pre mix stuff avoids this problem and is a good general ratio. Below like 40% the anti-corrosion drops off, and above 60% the heat transfer suffers. A guy I know that has a tire store also has an expensive hobby - dirt track racing around the Southeast, about $85K tied up in the car; they run 100% coolant, so they can not boil at 300F, and because it is dirt track no issue with coolant leaks and slick spots. But Rover aluminum engine likes to run cool for long life away from repair shops.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Aug 9, 2013 at 11:58 AM.
Here is a GM TSB on how to remove old Dexcool, just don't refill with it.
It is important to note that even without Dexcool radiators can build up scale and calcium, use of tap water, and the worst - well water (high mineral content) will do it. Near me part of the city water comes from the Savannah River, and what comes out goes back into the river in four hours based on use of the large factories. The rest of town gets water from deep wells. So on that side of town everyone's window glass has calcium buildup from washing the car at home, etc. Same way on the resort islands near me, most have deep well water systems. I have my own well and don't use it in the vehicles. Distilled water is about $1 a gallon.
The pre mix stuff avoids this problem and is a good general ratio. Below like 40% the anti-corrosion drops off, and above 60% the heat transfer suffers. A guy I know that has a tire store also has an expensive hobby - dirt track racing around the Southeast, about $85K tied up in the car; they run 100% coolant, so they can not boil at 300F, and because it is dirt track no issue with coolant leaks and slick spots. But Rover aluminum engine likes to run cool for long life away from repair shops.
It is important to note that even without Dexcool radiators can build up scale and calcium, use of tap water, and the worst - well water (high mineral content) will do it. Near me part of the city water comes from the Savannah River, and what comes out goes back into the river in four hours based on use of the large factories. The rest of town gets water from deep wells. So on that side of town everyone's window glass has calcium buildup from washing the car at home, etc. Same way on the resort islands near me, most have deep well water systems. I have my own well and don't use it in the vehicles. Distilled water is about $1 a gallon.
The pre mix stuff avoids this problem and is a good general ratio. Below like 40% the anti-corrosion drops off, and above 60% the heat transfer suffers. A guy I know that has a tire store also has an expensive hobby - dirt track racing around the Southeast, about $85K tied up in the car; they run 100% coolant, so they can not boil at 300F, and because it is dirt track no issue with coolant leaks and slick spots. But Rover aluminum engine likes to run cool for long life away from repair shops.
Thanks a million! This is very good information. I figure I may as well update my hoses as well. I'll look on AB and see if they have a kit or something. This will be e nice weekend project. Thanks again! I really appreciate it.


Nathan
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