You must have skipped over some of this. lol (not trying to sound like an *** if it did)

I'm getting a code for the driver side cat as well, and the leak is most likely the culprit there. I'm getting the head gasket kit, new bolts, new O2 sensors, and new y-pipe with cats. I figure if I have to remove everything I might as well do it once.

I always prepare for the worse. Since I never have good luck to begin with!

 

All my parts will be here tomorrow. I have a machine shop lined up to resurface the heads on Monday if it comes down to that. I also have a line on a set of reman OEM heads if that's a route I want to take.

Not sure what to think about all of that. I'm pretty this has been leaking since we got it last year, and seems like it's been leaking a lot longer than that. We'll see the damage on Saturday. I'll be sure to post up some pictures.

 

Opinions will differ on machining heads and I am a complete hypocrite about it. I am driving my truck now with unmachined heads (second head gasket set since new...) and have no issues. I got another engine and am having it redone, and had the heads shaved and deck checked. I had the latter heads/engine redone because it had a horrific head gasket leak with what appeared to be scarring on the head and deck (to me) and I was already spending big bucks on it.

 

Thanks for the reply. I don't think the head is going to need any work, but you never know. Part of me wants to buy the reman just to keep on hand in case something like this happens again.

 

Well, we're not done with the job yet. Kind of makes my wish we didn't move so fast on buying a Disco. This thing is an f'ing mess! It really makes me happy that I pulled the motor apart, and found everything wrong with it even though I was hoping to have it done today. I started with taking off the intake manifold, and removed the 4 longer bolts. I moved to the bolts in the center of the intake manifold to only find out the bolts were not there (problem #1).

Next I removed the rocker cover, and then the rocker arm. From there I removed all 8 of the header bolts on the driver side, and unbolted the header from the y-pipe. I crawl under the Rover to find the 1 of the studs on the header was missing, another sheared off, and the last remaining nut I was able to remove (problem #2).

I removed the lower manifold with no issues to expose the valley. Nothing looked wrong here except all the RTV sealing it up.

After that I removed the pipes, and controls from the SAI system that is bolted into the head. Once I removed that I was able to get the head off. This only thing that sucked about this was the lower rear bolt. After that the head came, and noticed a slight deformation in the head gasket. I put a machinist square on the head, then grabbed some feeler gauges, and we're good. Didn't see any gaps, and the feel gauge wouldn't pass under the square.

During this process I also found that the coil packs were not bolted down (problem #3). The SAI pipes were loose in the head, and several of the small tubes for the SAI system were cable tied in place (problem #4 & #5).

Everything was the exact same on the other side. Had 2 more sheared off bolts at the y-pipe and header. I sheared off the 2 studs connecting the y-pipe to the tail pipe, but that's no big deal.

While I was at I checked the fuel injectors, and they were all at 15 ohms. All in all I' just glad to know everything is going back together CORRECTLY! I need to get some bolts on other, and a couple other parts. I'm not going to be able to work on this again until Friday, and need to have it done on Saturday. I'll keep you posted, and thanks for all the help.

 

Couple of things... the rtv is required at the ends of the rubber gaskets on the front and back of the valley gasket, where they cross the joint in the block. So there should be some RTV there (red).

The studs on the exhaust manifold just suck. Getting them out sucks. Finding them sucks. Replacing them sucks. They just suck. I put some marine antiseize on mine last time I did a head gasket, but no word yet on whether that did good.

 

The RTV that was all over this was black. The only thing is that the black RTV was was around the entire valley. The studs came out pretty easy after about 0 minutes of heating them. I did find them from Rovers North along with some of the bolts that I was missing.

 

I use red on the valley/valve covers because of its higher temperature rating, and black on the oil pan, but opinions may differ.

Good job getting this sorted out!

 

All done, and things seem to be running a lot better. Now there's a new issue, and there codes P0130, P0160, P0161, P0171 & P0174. Also, after putting in the new y-pipe I'm seeing smoke from the passenger side where the y-pipe bolts to the header. At first I thought it was because they were new, and that's not the case. I also installed new O2 sensors. I think these are all exhaust related issues as well.

Any ideas?

 

You have been through hell on this rover! My friend has a rover identical to mine and has rust and problems everywhere. I'm watching him cuss and throw things right now! Hahaha. So you have shown considerable restraint.

Make sure your o2 wires didn't fall on the exhaust. That happened to me and I saw the same smoke and had the same o2 codes. Failing that, I think something plastic is against the block or exhaust. I'm assuming there's no way this could be exhaust gas (you'd definitely hear that).

The too lean codes on both sides might be a vacuum leak or or air leak. I would fix the 02 problem first and see if those codes go away. If not, check the tightness of the studs on the exhaust flange right below the exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold bolts. Failing that, did you take the upper intake manifold off? If so, did you replace the plenum gasket and the exhaust flange gasket between the Y pipe and the exhaust manifold?

You're almost there!