Coolant leak
#11
NEW AT THIS please forgive me if i am intrupting an ongoing thread
Good Day,
I own a 2002 Land Rover Discovery 2, 4.0 v8 and have beenexperiencing a significant coolant leak from the front driver side of myengine. I thought this might be the water pump so i replaced it. Only to findout the engine is still leaking from a lower position on the engine. into further detail, the coolant will only leak ifthe engine has been running for 10 mins, then the leak begins and works its wayinto a small stream at times. the Rover has about 90,000 miles on it. If you need more info please let me know.
thanks
Nash Stuart
I own a 2002 Land Rover Discovery 2, 4.0 v8 and have beenexperiencing a significant coolant leak from the front driver side of myengine. I thought this might be the water pump so i replaced it. Only to findout the engine is still leaking from a lower position on the engine. into further detail, the coolant will only leak ifthe engine has been running for 10 mins, then the leak begins and works its wayinto a small stream at times. the Rover has about 90,000 miles on it. If you need more info please let me know.
thanks
Nash Stuart
#12
#16
#17
looks like the leak is starting from behind and maybe below the water pump... but why would it only begin to leak after a few mins? and it does not seems to leak all the time, I could drive my Landy a few miles and it would not leak at all, but sitting idle it starts after 8-10 mins
all that could help please do, I love this vehicle and would put any time and effort to see it fixed, my wife on the other hand no so much...
thanks
all that could help please do, I love this vehicle and would put any time and effort to see it fixed, my wife on the other hand no so much...
thanks
#18
After a few minutes the coolant heats up from ambient in your parking area to perhaps 230F, depending on how bad the rest of your cooling system is. At that point the pressure in the cooling system has increased. Also, the engine is heated up, and various metal parts expand at one rate while gaskets made of something else expand at a different rate. Gaskets that are no longer "like new" may begin to "weep" or "leak".
There are two gaskets at that point, one for the water pump, and one for the front cover. You'll spend some skinned knuckle time getting to the point to change them out, and while in there you may as well change a couple of other things to avoid a return trip. But that is always a budget issue.
This kit from a vendor, like Atlantic British, has the oil pump (can crack), front crank seal, and both gaskets. You can add timing chain if you like based on miles on the truck. Water pump (eats aluminum when it starts to wobble) can also be replaced, an upgrade unit will have a larger bronze impeller. If changing a water pump, it is also a good idea to change the viscous fan clutch ($60) that has been married to the pump for the last 216 million revolutions together (that's 90,000 miles at 50 mph). Or you can just do the gaskets and front seal for about $20 with about the same labor.
Oh, and since the oil pan will be off, need a gasket for it (your's probably leaked), clean off the oil pickup, and replace the 25 cent O-ring that can rot and allow air to be sucked in instead of oil, loctite the bolts that hold the pick up tube.
There are two gaskets at that point, one for the water pump, and one for the front cover. You'll spend some skinned knuckle time getting to the point to change them out, and while in there you may as well change a couple of other things to avoid a return trip. But that is always a budget issue.
This kit from a vendor, like Atlantic British, has the oil pump (can crack), front crank seal, and both gaskets. You can add timing chain if you like based on miles on the truck. Water pump (eats aluminum when it starts to wobble) can also be replaced, an upgrade unit will have a larger bronze impeller. If changing a water pump, it is also a good idea to change the viscous fan clutch ($60) that has been married to the pump for the last 216 million revolutions together (that's 90,000 miles at 50 mph). Or you can just do the gaskets and front seal for about $20 with about the same labor.
Oh, and since the oil pan will be off, need a gasket for it (your's probably leaked), clean off the oil pickup, and replace the 25 cent O-ring that can rot and allow air to be sucked in instead of oil, loctite the bolts that hold the pick up tube.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 02-27-2013 at 07:09 AM.
#19
#20
Ok thank you BUZZ. I already replaced the water pump and gasket, I know where the time chain gasket is located and feel at ease to be able to go back under the hood and get that replaced. I believe when you say front cover you are refering to the timing cover. in that case I would replae the timing gasket and he Crankshaft front oil seal, and the gear looking thing is the? when you say oil pan do you mean the oil sump pan.
I am receiving my definitions from the Land Rover Workshop Manual, page 12-2-4 and -5.
I am receiving my definitions from the Land Rover Workshop Manual, page 12-2-4 and -5.