Picked myself up a 2003 Discovery SE7 w/90k miles back in January after about a year worth of ogling them on the web for about a year. Been reading a lot of things on your forum here for a while, and I read the RAVE manual almost daily.

I've already repaired a faulty door lock actuator and severely loose throttle cables (some work done by a previous owner had actually switched the cables around on the throttle body). Drive Shaft rebuild was next on my list but...

Been driving my Rover lately as my other car is in the shop getting brakes done. Not been having any problems. Today as I drive home the Check Engine light is on. When I got to my driveway a few miles later, I smelled the sweet burning smell of coolant. Looked underneath and fluid is just pouring from under the truck. I've done some more checking and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the water pump area.

So it looks like I'm headed for a rebuild. It will have to wait though, I don't have a garage at the moment. I will have one next month though as I've just purchased a house with a HUGE work garage, so plenty of space to start the repairs.

Looking forward to chatting with all of you.

 

Welcome aboard! Here is an event you need to check out and enjoy riding your rover with other rover folks. I finally made it out to this last year and had a great time! Stock to modified. Trails for all levels and great views.

Green Oval Guild | The Wilds Land Rover Experience

Also if you click on the Photos link on that same page you can see some pics of past events.

 

Well, you are probably just headed for a water pump. When they get worn, they wobble and leak badly out the nose. Eats metal when wobbling. You can rent/borrow a coolant presure tester and pump up to 15 psi to look for leaks. There is a gasket betwen the water pump and front cover, and another between front cover and block. If doing the front cover swap oil pump gears at same time ($115 kit), inspect and evaluate timing chain as well.

Afternoon of wrenching. PITA is getting the fan clutch off, put the wrench on the nut that connects it to water pump. Stand in front of truck. Take a hammer and knock the poop out of the wrench, to your left, toward passenger side.

You'll want to replace fan clutch at same time. There is a Chevy 2000 Express van 4.3 w/o AC unit for about $60 that will fit, may need to enlarge bolt holes on your fan.

BTW, relocated your thread, tech problems don't do so well in new introduction section.

 

Sounds like great fun, unfortunately I'll be out of town on business during those dates. Also with buying the house, money will be a little tight at the moment, so it looks like the Rover will be sitting for a bit until the move happens at the end of May. I'll keep watching their website for other awesome events like that.

As far as the leak goes, I'm going to try and figure out exactly what's going on if it can warm up a bit today.

 

Hey Savannah Buzz, what do you do when the fan clutch snaps off of the water pump? I just changed the water pump and realized that I don't know how I am going to get this off.

 

The threads of the clutch to water pump are such that if parts are mounted in the truck - stand in front of truck - and clutch has to turn left (anti-clockwise) to loosen. This is normally accomplished with belt on, long wrench on clutch bolt, another wrench on tensioner (applying rather than releasing tension). And with your free hand, get a firm grip on a hammer and hit the clutch wrench sharply and firmly, not a love pat. Toward passenger side on NAS trucks.

All is not lost. If fan and clutch were not brand new, it is normal to change both. They are locked in an embrace and spin around the dance floor for millions of revolutions. They know each other's slight imbalances. Bring in a new one, and it is not the same. The clutch and WP love to jump off the cliff holding hands.

A substitute clutch is 2000 Chevy Express van, 4.3 liter, w/o AC. Goes to water pump. Fan bolt holes may have to be enlarged slightly. About $60. If in a pinch and near a junkyard, late 90's - early 2000 Chevy and GM used this same thead and size clutch (six inch, reverse rotation). Under $20 at the boneyard.

 

Just a brief update.

Went and picked up the coolant pressure tester at advanced and tested the system. Couldn't get the system much past 10PSI. Once I got it there, it would only stay for around a minute, not giving me much time to search under the truck, but I do think it's coming from the underside of the water pump. I don't have the tools to get the fan off at the moment, and just couldn't get an angle on my little mirror.

So come tomorrow I'm going to have it towed to the shop. If all they need to do is the pump, great. If it's something major then I'll get it towed back and it will sit for a month until I close on my new house w/garage for the major service.

 

Check your oil level, may be going into there.

 

I just had my water pump replaced last week. As much as I wanted to do it myself, it's hard to take on certain projects given that I live in an apartment in Chicago and park in the street.

Cost for the pump, new belt, and coolant flush was $357.

Mine was making a noise and the fan was wobbly. Hope this helps.