The pressure test didn't reveal anything with mine. It's a tiny leak that only leaks at a specific temperature. I finally found it by inspecting the undersides of the heads with a flashlight. This leak was front drivers side, so there was a trail of coagulated dexcool running backward under the head. I think they are harder to spot when it's the back of the head that's super slowly leaking.

 

I think i am going to have to do it myself it is pretty hard to justify spending more than the car is worth in shop time. I have been adding about a quarter of a gallon every couple of weeks up untill it went fully. Atlantic British has a kit and for $160 and the bolts for $80. the later seems a little pricy for 20 bolts, that's $4 a bolt but if it saves me 2500 so be it.

I feel like with y'all by my side i will be able to do it even if it takes weeks. I am so thankful that there are truly knowledgeable people on this forum. the Volvo forum i was on for my wife's car was pretty bad i just got responses like "that's weird good luck" i am forever appreciative of the wealth of knowledge here. thanks again.

 

Places like this are priceless when it comes to information based upon experience. I've been a member on a forum for my last 5 or 6 cars.. totally worth it. I get laughed at... but hey, I'm not at the dealer dropping thousands.

There is no reason you cannot do the headgaskets yourself. Just take your time. I did the front cover and WP last week.. book says 5 hour job.. I did it in 9... guess what.. it doesn't leak from that end of the engine anymore.(for now)

 

I must say the Land Rover community is the best I have seen for DIY maintenance help. I been on some motorcycle forums that were almost as good, but I haven't seen a car forum anywhere close.

 

You can find victor reins kits (gaskets and bolts) for under 200 shipped online. I think its the best for the buck.

Just some tips.

Use blue hylomar around the water jackets on the valley pan gasket.

Make sure to machine the heads(if they bare off by .002 or more they will leak)

Use copper head spray on the head gasket when installing

When you get all the new head bolts in at 15ft pounds mark them with a paint pen to make the 90 degree turns

Use engine oil to lubricate the head bolts on installation

You will also need a 2 foot breaker bar and some impact sockets and swivel joints to get the head bolts off

 

Can the heads just be pulled and the gaskets replaced? Or must they go to a shop? I'm not trying to be cheap.. just trying to avoid unnecessary expenses. Thanks again!

 

This is a two way street. If your heads are warped and you reinstall them you may be taking time out of your schedule "again" in the near future to pull the heads. Trust me, you don't want to relive that experience so soon.

On the other hand, you pay a machine shop a couple hundred bucks for reassurance get a valve/head job and get peace of mind. Need to weigh the two options to see what best suits you. I know what I would do

 

Get the heads machined. With that many miles, may be worthwhile to get a valve job. A lot of your valves will be " loose ". Have them check the head for cracks.

When I had mine done at 97k, 4 valves were galled and had to be replaced. The left head had to be replaced ( cracked ).

Took me 2 wk to get the job done. Lots of time lost from getting stuff I needed.
Valve job was 2 days turn-around time.

That LR was my first head work. Now it has over 146,000 miles on it.

 

Gotcha.. thanks guys!

 

When I did mine I thought it would be fine as I never really over heated it and sure enough the head gaskets failed immediately. Had to take it all apart to find out my heads were warped by .004