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coolant leak, time to look deeper

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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 12:18 PM
  #11  
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The coolant pipe by the alternator - if you removed it from the engine -then
put in a new "O" ring.
And clean out the circular hole where it the metal hose plugs back in.
That will probably solve it.

You can also have antfreeze dripping from the two little black hoses going int the heater element on the intake manifold - or the heater itself leaking.

Check all that for leaks.

Best to take rover to the parts store.
Get a can of GUNK foam.

Take rover to the self power wash.
Spray the engine all clean.

Then start looking for fresh leaks.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #12  
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Yes, wish I had done that, many pulley's off and going to have to spray it and wash it by hand
 
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #13  
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So I have found my leak but not sure exactly what I am looking at or what it means. The leak is not at the gasket for the water pump. that spot is out from the block. However, my leak is at the top right corner where that part meets the block. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #14  
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It appears it has been doing this for some time. I believe they probably used stop leak or something to last long enough to sell it.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 06:28 AM
  #15  
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re: my leak is at the top right corner where that part meets the block.

See attached pages.

One first page, is the leak around item #12, the front cover gasket, or where #13 (water pump gasket) would be? Freeze plugs are #1 items on drawing.

One second page, leak could come from #25 (valley pan, 4 corners are water paths) or the royal PITA of them all, # 27 (head gaskets). On #27, that rectangular slot front and back is the water path.

If it is part 12 in first drawing, you may wish to consider other things you can do at same time the front cover is off. A new set of oil pump gears comes to mind, and any high miles and/or slack may also make the timing chain a target. The front crank seal is done by default either way.
If high miles, would also consider new water pump and new fan clutch replaced as set. But WP and clutch can easily be done later, if you like wrenching.

The gaskets, seal and oil pump gears are like $115 from AB.
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
d2 front cover gasket.pdf (825.7 KB, 139 views)
File Type: pdf
d2 valley and HG gasket.pdf (613.3 KB, 123 views)
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #16  
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Thank you. I think it is #12 at top right where that little square area is. I probably will not change the water pump since you can get to it pretty easily but we are going to check the weap hole first. Going to check the chain and the gears as well while in there.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #17  
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Every bolt you take out poke into cardboard pattern in arrangement like the cover. Certain bolts are different lengths. If water pump has shiny freshly milled metal finish inside the impeller could be wobbling and grinding aluminum where the vanes scrape.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 05:36 PM
  #18  
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Use your cell phone or a friends.
Take a picture of the leak.
Email it to your self.
Then extract the .jpg.
Use the advanced post tab on this BB.
Upload the pic then
say CLOSE this window.
It will post the picture for us all to see.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #19  
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I will try to do that. Of course then you get to see all the cleaning I get to do on it lol. It will probably be Tues. afternoon before I get to look at it again.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 10:05 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Every bolt you take out poke into cardboard pattern in arrangement like the cover. Certain bolts are different lengths. If water pump has shiny freshly milled metal finish inside the impeller could be wobbling and grinding aluminum where the vanes scrape.
Thanks, I will watch for that as we get it apart. Going to take the pulleys off from the other side so we can get the front of this thing a good cleaning while we are at it.
 
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