Before you take the video
Spend $5 for a can of Gunk engine cleaner foam.

Take it to the coin pressure car wash.

Wait 5 mins.


Spray the whole can of GUNK engine cleaner onto all the grease.

Then high pressure sprayer on soap mode.
You'll get off all the grease. Even from the water pump.

 

Yes, unfortunately I am already passed that point. pulleys and main support bracket is off on right side and leak is good enough I wouldn't want to drive it there any way. It never got hot but when testing it previously, it was a constant thin stream coming out when engine was warm and circulating. So I have some of the engine cleaner here and just going to use a wire brush to get main off and then hose.

 

Well I finally got the fan off and cleaned the worst of the oil mess. Seeing some actual metal again. The leak is definitely the top right corner of the timing gasket. Started loosening those two bolts there (even though I don't have the main bolt and wheel from below off. ( The one that everyone seems to like using the starter to get off) Makes me nervous though. When I went to loosen the bolts behind the water pump, they were very loose. The ones on the other side were as well but right where my leak was, they were easy to turn. Tempted to get my torque wrench out and tighten it back down and pressure test it again rather than pull everything out. However, I kind of figure if it leaked past the gasket, it probably ruined the gasket. I would have to borrow my friend's pressure tester as well.

On a good note, every day I have been looking at the front, I have been using pb blaster on the bolts for the exhaust manifold on the driver's side which has a bad exhaust leak. Got all of them to break loose and loosen up without breaking any. All that is left on those is to go under and break loose the ones to the exhaust side.

 

Mate,
Do not take it further apart.

If those bolts were loose, just tightening them may solve the leak.

Taking things apart - for a leak - is adding risk and complexity.
Remember - loose bolts make leaks. Period.

So do go ahead, tighten to torque.

Put back together.

use the GUNK and get all the grease out.
Then look for leaks again.

If you are afraid of gunk, then use 3M foam cleaner.

Great find - you found your leak.

 

o.k., so tightened the bolts and guess what, its leaking right out still. So my timing cover seal must be replaced. Now from what I see, that means I also means I must drop the oil pan and get a seal for that. Can anyone tell me any other seals I may need? Also, is there a seal on the small grey square where the hoses meet up under the throttle body? It as if where that fits onto the throttle body has been seeping through around the seam.

 

Its not a valve cover gasket you cant just tighten the bolts, its a paper gasket it needs to be replaced.

You might want to check your timing chain and oil pump and water pumps while your in thier.

you will also need a new crankshaft seal for the timing case cover

Yes; you are going to have to drop the oil pan, removing the front frame brace (4 bolt) makes it easier to play with the pan.

Throttle body heater the gasket and new cover is like $25 a BA

 

Yes, already figured that out just asking what other gaskets will have to be changed and what you call part gasket on square piece under throttle body

 

Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit (Genuine Part # MGM000010) | Land Rover And Range Rover Fuel System Parts

 

That is it exactly, thanks

 

Looked up kit at Atlantic British and it seems to have more than I expected to have to do. Please look over this and tell me if I need all of this.

(Gasket Conversion Kit)

Oil Seal - rear crankshaft
water pump gasket
o-ring oil pickup
camshaft sensor o-ring
oil seal engine front
gasket cover (front)
seal main bearing side crucifix ????
gasket oil pan (for 99 bosch engines only )

This is for a 2000 Discovery II with a leak right at timing chain gasket. No other leaks observed under pressure test excepting the throttle body plate kit which will be changed as well.

Thank you