Good day. Found one of my two missing clips for the windshield pillar. That means the other one has to be close Also got crank bolt off by using the trick of wedging the socket with a bar against the frame. Wanted to watch and make sure everything was fine and so got my 14 year old girl to get in the truck and turn the key. Note to self. Its time for some basic car instructions for her. She turned the key and sure enough the bolt moved. Truck actually started, she turned the key back, ummm to running mode. I'm standing there watching the bolt roll out yelling turn it off, turn it off. She saying I did, I did, about the time I get to the door she figures out to turn it back one more space. No damage, but it sure spiced things up

Now if I can just get that darned stripped bolt off the cross member I can get everything ready for the parts that get here Tuesday.

 

Question about procedures from RAVE manual on sump removal. Getting ready to do gaskets on Timing chain (pulling things off) I pulled the exhaust manifold last night, curious because I found no cracks but had bad puffing coming around the manifold. Hopefully it was the seal. However, I took the cross member off under the sump. That was as far as I got last night. Now the rave says to remove the earth ground off the battery. I did that but while I am at work today I am wondering if I made a mistake. seems that I have heard people have trouble with their security if left off for too long and needing some kind of code or something to put in. Is a problem like that possible? I probably won't be able to work on it again until Friday night.

 

O.k., so the Rave says that before taking off the timing cover, remove the oil coolant pipe (if installed) ]It seems there is something still on the bottom left that is holding it or rather pulling it back as I try to work it off.[/U] It sucks back in when I let the screwdriver out. I have it loose all the way around so I know it is not a bolt. I haven't forced it because I don't want to break anything. I've got the sump off and while there is plenty of sludge, no shavings.

Also changing the plugs to Bosch plat. +4's. However, I am going to probably change the wires over my Christmas break as long as I don't get a bunch of misfires. The champions that were in it were all funky on the gaps.

Going to rebuild the drive shaft as well, I take it out, my friend will press them in at his shop so its a good time to get it done, especially since the back u-joint looks wore out.

 

Uhgg, If I could just get my exhaust manifold back in now that I have my seals. I can't get it in. Gosh.

 

Got the manifold back on, changing spark plugs and back one on the passenger side wants to cross thread going back in. Can't get it started right and don't want to screw threads all the way down. Any ideas. They had three different kinds of plugs on the car. However I don't think I will use the +4's again. It is very easy to bend the arms for the spark.

 

Take your time and be patient with the spark plugs. I had the same problem, plug wanted to cross thread. Since you have so much apart right now, take off whatever else might help you get the best angle to put the plug in. Take a break if you have to.

 

Yeah, it did start shaving metal but I didn't put it far or all the way. My friend has a tap and says we can take care of it. I don't think I like aluminum heads.

 

put anti-seize on the new plugs and that wont be a problem, you should aways use antiseize whenever your mating aluminum and steel.

 

Yeah, I read about that trick and did that as well, prior to the problem. Maybe the one run in there before wasn't quite right since they had two different types of plugs in it.

 

So guys, putting the timing cover back on. Got it on and the gear that goes on the shaft slid out some. I pushed it back in but do not know if it is on the key right. It is flush with the indention for where the shaft gasket will go. Take a look at the picture. It seems like it would rub the gasket as it turns. Do I need to take it off and start again?