Isn't the pressure of the cap 18lbs? That so a 15lb pressure test would not tell you much.

The throttle body heater plate leak would show up visually as coolant on the drivers side valve cover, down the side of the head, and/or on the exhaust.

Signs of coolant in the oil would be visible on the dip stick.

 

@ hokkabaz, when you bleed via the screw on the T, you should be topping up the overflow tank so that it does not go below the visible portion of the overflow tank. You should also remove the tank from its perch and hold it as high as you can without breaking one of the plastic lines. This should be done with the engine COLD, STONE COLD. Not after it has been running.

Good Luck!

 

rtonder wrote: "It could be drawing coolant into either the front or rear cylinders on either bank after the engine warms up to operating temp. Not sure, but can happen if head gaskets are upside down or if the block/heads are not flat. Check to see if front or rear spark plugs in both banks are white and not light tan. If insulation is white, could be coolant in the combustion chamber."
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Yes, exactly. So, if all else fails, keep the above in mind. Too often I see guys changing head gaskets, with little or no experience in doing so, when they have block or heads that are ever so slightly warped from heat (aluminum heads, especially, are notorious for this), and/or they don't do torque sequence or proper torque correctly. I have learned through experience, especially with the all aluminum block/head of the Rover engine, that it pays in long run, to check very carefully the flatness of the heads/block mating surfaces, using precision straight edge and feeler gauge, to use the best, highest quality head gaskets available, use ARP head studs/nuts; not common Rover stretch head bolts, and to take your time and do the whole job right the first time, or risk future problems, such as what you are seeing, or worse problems.

 

I did top it off but
1) i was filling up when the engine is hot, because a friend was telling me the engine should be running to be able to push the air out
2) i didnt higher the tank(i guess the reason is to give more force to water to push away the air trapped on the lower parts?)

I will repeat it to ight with these 2 things in mind! Thank you!

 

I know raising it up actually just brings the coolant level above the threads of the bleed valve. If you fill your reservoir where it is and fluid comes out of the bleed valve, there is no reason to lift your reservoir. I have never had to lift my reservoir, when it gets to the top of it, coolant come out of the bleed valve, and close the valve.
I know I normally fill systems that have the cap on the radiator, while running, so I can see that the thermostat is opening and flowing. To be clear on this, I do this when the engine is cold and allow it to heat up while keeping an eye on the level and flow. When the fluid gets hot enough, the thermostat will open and you can see it flowing and level will drop, i fill it and watch it go thru a couple of cycles before closing it and then filling the reservoir.

 

I did what you guys said and I think i am over this issue also, 5678 more to go!!! Even when the engine is cold, i can still see some amount of water in the coolant tank and obdII shows 189-194ish on highway and 194when in traffic with AC on, which is not high as I see from other members inputs! Thank yall!

 

Just keep a close eye on it. For the first year I had it, I checked the water every morning.

 

Shop said water pump was bad--just replaced last month. Did that along with the previously cross-threaded fan clutch. Drove it for one day and woke up to slow steady drip under fan. Dropped about 1/2" coolant in reservoir over 24 hours. Waterfall sound back. Pressure tested again by shop today with no leaks. I am performing all the ignored maintenance from the years past so wondering if I shouldn't just replace all the hoses since I'm already addicted to the damn truck. Only leaks after sitting for several hours. Thx for input.

 

after 15 years do you think its time

 

Found leak at small hose at bottom of radiator and changed radiator cap. External leaks fixed. Took home and gets waterfall after 5 minutes and starts to overheat. Bled "by the book" when stone cold. Same thing. Towed to garage who said lower hoses were cool, but uppers hot. Said he ran block dye and says head gaskets blown. Engine runs very smoothly and drives great. Any of this sound right?

Quoted $2200 to do the job IF the heads are OK. Another $2000 (British Atlantic) if not. If I have to do both, I'll have $6,500 in repairs over five months.

If it runs a couple years without more than $1-2K annual maintenance, still a bargain, I guess.

Will advise next week after getting the work done.