I'm sorry for starting a new thread but I'm in distress
So I got coolant in oil
Got the head gaskets replaces 11k ago
What I'm along even if it was the head gaskets wouldn't that just push compression into cooling system
I guess what I don't understand is how Coolant would get into oil if head gasket is blown
Thatnk you all very very much
Ps a lot of coolant in oil

 

The head gaskets keep 3 things apart : coolant, oil, and cylinder compression. If they fail, it is possible to get coolant in the oil (and oil in the coolant, coolant in the cylinders, and so on)

Another common source of coolant in the oil is oil coolers. But I'm not sure if the discovery has one.

 

So, the question is why is their coolant in the oil, the best explanation is a head gasket failure. No I know you say that you had it done 11k ago, so let me cover that.

Another Head Gasket Failure can be because of the following reasons:

- Bad New Head Gasket
- Not torqued properly. When you torque your heads down the bolts have to be new and not reused, the bolts must be put in in a specific order, torque in a specific pattern, and their should be time taken inbetween each of the three torquing sequences.
-The heads were slightly warped and not blocked
-The heads or engine block were not properly cleaned.

So my guess is something wasn't done right during the repair.

Now possible solutions. Most people would say new gaskets, and I concur, however, you might try a bottle of k-Seal for 14 bucks in the coolant res., change the oil and see what happens, you might be suprised.

 

I have two friends in the Seattle area who had HG's done in the last year which failed again within a few thousand miles.

More than one foreign car shop is changing Disco HG's without machining the heads and then not standing behind the work.

One had to pay another shop to do it again as he has no skills or tools. The other sold his for $1000 convinced it was a goner.

There are a few good independent LR specialty shops in the Seattle area, Their HG prices are in the $2400 range. if you did not go to one of those, then buyer beware.

Otherwise if you insist on having a non land rover only specialty shop work on your truck insist and pay to have the heads machined and the block decked if needed.

You will pay twice otherwise.

 

"I guess what I don't understand is how Coolant would get into oil if head gasket is blown"
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More often than not, on the Rover V8 engine, oil gets into oil in oil pan, from one or more cracks in aluminum wall(s) behind cylinder liner(s). Such cracks are usually a direct result of overheating engine, and indirect partial result of stress put on critical area of that wall--- head bolt threaded holes in block that are too close to that wall behind cylinder liner(s). That excess stress is from use of stretch head bolts; while using studs and nuts in place of head bolts doesn't put as much stress in this critical area. What happens is that the stressed aluminum wall(s) behind cylinder liner(s), when engine is overheated, gives way to that stress, causing cracking of the thin aluminum wall, and sometimes that cracking allows just enough relief to the pressed in cylinder liners, to loosen some of them up---slipped liner(s)---that doesn't always happen as a result of the cracked aluminum wall(s), but sometimes it does. Once the wall(s) behind liners are cracked, the coolant simply escapes through those cracks, moving directly down, into the oil pan. Sometimes when head gasket is blown, especially during an overheating episode, the thin aluminum wall behind cylinder liner is cracked too. Most people don't fully realize what happened when they blow head gaskets, so they slap on new head gaskets, and a short time later, they see them fail, due to the cracked walls that have not been addressed. Additionally, during an overheating episode, the all aluminum heads will warp, directly due to the overheated engine; that is a common thing, on all engines with aluminum heads; they are notorious for warping from heat. Most people don't pay any attention to that either; simply, again, slap in new head gaskets, later learn the whole truth of what happened.

 

My guess was cracked block behind liners as well, but the "lots of coolant" gave me pause. How much are we talking about here? I don't think coolant can free-flow from between piston liners into the crank case, even if it were in more than 1 cylinder.

 

" I don't think coolant can free-flow from between piston liners into the crank case,"
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Yes it can; some have found enough coolant, from that source, in the crankcase to be significant. However, you are correct, and one would have to know how long the problem had existed, how long the free flow had taken place, how long it took before problem was first noticed, etc. Remember, coolant from this source is damn hot; turns to pressured steam quickly, so it doesn't take all that long to build up, as it reaches its way to the crankcase. This is exactly why the newest, best flange top cylinder liners also have big "healthy" O rings around the exterior outer walls of liners, to BLOCK coolant from going down into oil pan.

 

Got it, however IMHO, putting flanged liners in a cracked block for $4-6K is idiotic. That addresses the symptom, not the cause.

 

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If aluminum wall(s) behind cylinder liner(s) is, indeed, cracked, it isn't difficult to have them TIG welded, as TIG welding aluminum like that is now commonplace. Of course, original liners would have to be removed; to get at the wall behind, to weld it up. After that, welds are machined for fitting in new top hat, flanged, liners; problem solved.

 

Not really. Coolant passages aren't centered and cylinder bore size isn't consistent due to machining problems...hence the cracks and leaks. You can weld cracks, and use flanged liners but the coolant passages and cylinder bore (and God knows what else) will still be off. If I'm going to pay the kind of money they want for these rebuilt engines, it better darn well be from a good block (99-00 RR 4.6). That's just me though.