In the whole process of checking for my coolant leak, I have noticed that my cap is damaged. The inside plastice edge has all but gone. Can this become an issue with pressure in the system? I left the edge "dangling" in the pic so it would make sense on what is going on.
I will start looking for a new cap, but for the time being it should be ok driving?
FYI ... I am certain none of these broken bits are in the system and have been tossed away.

 

System with 50:50 antifreeze mix should not boil until 235F, even with no cap. The 18 PSI cap extends that no boil to a much higher number. Overheating no joke, so order cap el pronto.

 

Hi,
My opinion -
As long as no coolant is leaking out - you are good to go.
Get a new cap tho ASAP.
Keep your 50:50 mix topped up and
keep your nose tuned for the antifreeze smell.
Keep your eye on the temp gauge until you get that new cap.

I just spent a long time getting my cooling system in order.
First with head gaskets replaced.
Then, a new thermostat
Then bleeding the system.

All seems fine, at least for now.

 

Get a new cap soon.

The cap sealing proper is critical. The system may not pressure up properly which could lead to overheating. You could also lose coolant or air could get into the system.

I have a sight glass on my in-line thermostat system. I was able to see air getting in. The cuplrit was the pressure cap. Replaced it and no more air since.

 

I was looking at where the cap was damaged and had hoped it would not affect the pressure seal of the cap.... But in the same instance I figured it was not a good thing. Will order a new cap from Atlantic British once I get a parts order together for the leaking coolant off the front end... Pressure testing soon to narrow it down.

 

I have been chasing a coolant leak / air in system since winter, I did all of the easy leaks. I can't see any leaks now but still collecting air. My cap looks like your and it never occured to me that it might let air in. Will replace mine tomorrow. if nothing else, it's another new part.

 

The coolant cap as well as the t/stat both get eaten up do to the Dexcool.
I would suggest to anyone with this problem, to replace both every 60,000 miles and get rid of the Dexcool switching over to a green coolant.

 

Dexcool is like a bad lab experiment that got out of the lab - now it morphed to eat plastic - kinda like the Andromeda strain -

 

LOL....
A quick question about flushing the coolant. I see a coolant flush additive at the store. I am under the impression that all the Dexcool needs to be evacuated before any of a different brand goes in. So,
1. Drain the system completely
2. add the additive/cleaner with distilled water
3. Drive around the block a couple times
4. Drain system again, then put the 50/50 mix of peak or any other yellow or green
Should I run into any issues or is it as easy as I think?

 

See attached GM shop method for flush. After chemical flush then flush with distilled water, then refill with 50:50 premix green or yellow coolant.

There are also coolants that are compatible with Dexcool, but IMHO you still need to flush to get out as much dex-mud as possible.