Can someone provide me with the proper way of bleeding your cooling systems. Reading through some of the threads, its confusing.

Thanks
02 Disco II
105,000 miles

 

Please ignore. Thanks Mike for your response

 

1. Let truck sit and cool completely 2. Open reservoir cap 3. Open bleed screw 4. On reservoir there is a small hose that runs along side of battery box unclip hose from box 5. Pull reservoir forward and then lift up above battery box 6. Fill reservoir up with coolant until flowing out from bleeder screw 7. Put bleed screw back in and return reservoir to its place 8. Fill reservoir up to the cold line 9. Here is where every one has their own method and there are a few ways that work! For me I leave cap off reservoir and start the truck, turn heater on high both sides & let truck run to operating temp you will see air bubbles at the top of reservoir that the air being forced out after air bubbles stop put cap on and take for a ride. You should hear no (waterfall) sounds under dash. Now park truck and let cool off again top off if needed!

 

DISCO MIKES METHOD:

It is amazing how many wrong was there are posted on how to do the proper bleeding of a D2. You only bleed the engine when stone cold, not warm or hot, not with the engine running or the cap off and running. Remove the bleed screw, do not just loosen it, fill thru the coolant bottle using the proper amount of coolant and water, 50/50, and add coolant till you get a steady stream of coolant coming from the open bleed screw hole. Once you have coolant coming out, replace the bleed screw, then the coolant cap, start the engine, turn both heaters to full hot and allow the engine to idle up to operating temp, where when hot the heater should now be running warm at idle, if not, you still have air in the system and will need to let the engine cool down and re-bleed one more time. Never rev up the engine, trying to get the engine hotter quicker or the coolant surge on a full coolant bottle can pop a line. I usually always suggest that the next morning, before cold starting the engine, check and top off the coolant bottle for any loss and check it again around a week later, always when cold not warm or hot or the level will not be accurate. __________________

 

So let me get this right. I pulled expansion tank cap off while engine was hot and had a rise in the coolant (another method I learnt off this forum), that is telling me I have air in the system. Here is my question in regards to the above quote. Take bleeder screw out (which is the plastic screw located on the top of the T-hoses) and the expansion tank lid as well. All when engine is stone cold, and fill through the expansion tank with proper mix until steady stream comes out the bleeder screw hole. Then replace both cap and screw. I guess my question is won't there be too much coolant in the system if the expansion tank is completely full? Still learning on the Rover, I've only owned it 6 months. I also did the rev the engine to 1100 RPM's with cap off to see if the coolant stayed at constant level and it did. That rules on combustion pushing out coolant.

Edit: with the above concern in mind, are you saying that the overflow will bleed out the excessive amount of coolant and eventually bring it to the correct level?

 

I pull the coolant tank right out and hang it from the hood with some tie wire so its about 1 foot above the engine. Then fill with bleed screw out. Top it up in the morning as needed. Works every time !

 

I took the E.T. out and suspended it, then filled with distilled til it came out the bleed screw. Dumb question before but forgot about the overflow hose on the E.T. and overfilling. Running at 195-197 @ 50+mph but still hopping up sometimes, not constant to around the 206-208 area at idle. Makes me a bit nervous even with a beer buzz.

I don't want to start replacing things without them being broke but with 104K miles, thinking a radiator flow test or new rad is in order as everything else in the cooling system seems fine. All hoses are new, new t-stat, fan clutch is good, but not sure about auxiliary as it doesn't kick on till 212 degrees.

 

Get a 180 t-stat your temps will drop by about 10*. you temps are the same as mine, normal operating temp for discos. The aux fan kicks in at 212 to stop over heating too much reading makes you paranoid like me lol

 

I will do that with the tstat. I just took it out for a longer spin to see if I notice any off patterns on temp. It was fine with normal temps driving through Starbucks for coffee, then I get home, while idling, temp hits 210, aux fan kicks on @ 210, then it spikes to 217 before slowing coming back down to 206. Drives me fackin' mad. 6 months ago when I bought it, never would go above 204. I recently read from disco Mike that if you take the E.T. cap off while engine is hot, you'll introduce air into the cooling system. I think that seems when all my not normal temps starting happening. I'll try another bleed tomorrow morning when engine is stone cold and order up that 180 t stat from A.B.

 

Which item# over at Atlantic British is the 180 tstat? They carry three and one of them says for warm weather climate, I'm assuming that would be the 180 degree one? They don't specify each one in the details of the tstat item.