Cooling System
#131
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Correct
I should have a couple back in Missouri. I'll have a better idea when I head back in a month.
#132
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OEM stat's have a better reputation than non. The 180 is the soft spring stat which is what I bought, and have been running in the past. I've had both OEM and non, and both have failed out of the box.
Correct
I should have a couple back in Missouri. I'll have a better idea when I head back in a month.
Correct
I should have a couple back in Missouri. I'll have a better idea when I head back in a month.
How long did you drive this thing before it overheated etc? Did the temp climb and then you shut it off or did you actually run it awhile at 220?
Did you jack it up, elevate the bottle, squeeze the hoses?
#133
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We elevated the bottle, squeezed the hoses, vacuumed the system, and ran it to burp out the air. The system was completely air free, and I'm 100% sure of that.
#134
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What's your idle at?
Does it drop when you give it a little gas?
#136
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I think so, but not 100% sure just yet.
We had the Rover shipped to Oregon, and it arrived a couple weeks ago. We'll be able to pull the cooling system apart once our garage is cleaned out from a recent remodel. I'm pretty confident the issue the entire time has been bad thermostats, and solution to this is converting to an inline thermostat.
We had the Rover shipped to Oregon, and it arrived a couple weeks ago. We'll be able to pull the cooling system apart once our garage is cleaned out from a recent remodel. I'm pretty confident the issue the entire time has been bad thermostats, and solution to this is converting to an inline thermostat.
#137
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The old drop in a pot of boiling water will always prove if a Thermostat is faulty or not. Mis-marked from 180F to 195F has certainly happened, but I'll say it again "if" it opens in boiling pot of water the Thermostat isn't bad. You can use an Infrared Thermometer to get an idea on the opening temp's.
I've got a 500.00 D2 that I'm once again tinkering with & it's coolant system was a mess. Badly sealed waterpump which I replaced, broken T which I replaced, pinhole in lower hose at the waterpump, and I went ahead and swapped out the original 195F Thermostat for another new 195F I had laying around. I also swapped out the fan blade/fan clutch. Since my copper T doesn't have the bleed screw I've still got some decent air in the system. Temps are in the 205-211F range right now, but if I rev the engine the temps will go down to 200-202F. I'm guessing the original radiator is probably pretty clogged. I will get a new Britpart 180F thermostat and see how that does. If it still acts up I'll order a new radiator.
The inline Thermostat is okay, but so is a 180F original design Thermostat. I am not a fan of cutting the shroud for the inline thermostat, and I don't like all the extra clamps either. To me it looks crappy, and "if" I ever was to attempt the inline thermostat I'd keep the Thermostat in the same OEM location, and just slap a 90 in vs the T. It should still work & certainly would look cleaner, however I have no need for it as the 180F thermostat keeps me in the 188-210F range without any issues.
I've got a 500.00 D2 that I'm once again tinkering with & it's coolant system was a mess. Badly sealed waterpump which I replaced, broken T which I replaced, pinhole in lower hose at the waterpump, and I went ahead and swapped out the original 195F Thermostat for another new 195F I had laying around. I also swapped out the fan blade/fan clutch. Since my copper T doesn't have the bleed screw I've still got some decent air in the system. Temps are in the 205-211F range right now, but if I rev the engine the temps will go down to 200-202F. I'm guessing the original radiator is probably pretty clogged. I will get a new Britpart 180F thermostat and see how that does. If it still acts up I'll order a new radiator.
The inline Thermostat is okay, but so is a 180F original design Thermostat. I am not a fan of cutting the shroud for the inline thermostat, and I don't like all the extra clamps either. To me it looks crappy, and "if" I ever was to attempt the inline thermostat I'd keep the Thermostat in the same OEM location, and just slap a 90 in vs the T. It should still work & certainly would look cleaner, however I have no need for it as the 180F thermostat keeps me in the 188-210F range without any issues.
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Richard Gallant (12-26-2018)
#139
#140
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The old drop in a pot of boiling water will always prove if a Thermostat is faulty or not. Mis-marked from 180F to 195F has certainly happened, but I'll say it again "if" it opens in boiling pot of water the Thermostat isn't bad. You can use an Infrared Thermometer to get an idea on the opening temp's. 2 failed out of the box by boiling water test, and a 3rd after 400 miles.
I've got a 500.00 D2 that I'm once again tinkering with & it's coolant system was a mess. Badly sealed waterpump which I replaced, broken T which I replaced, pinhole in lower hose at the waterpump, and I went ahead and swapped out the original 195F Thermostat for another new 195F I had laying around. I also swapped out the fan blade/fan clutch. Since my copper T doesn't have the bleed screw I've still got some decent air in the system. Temps are in the 205-211F range right now, but if I rev the engine the temps will go down to 200-202F. I'm guessing the original radiator is probably pretty clogged. I will get a new Britpart 180F thermostat and see how that does. If it still acts up I'll order a new radiator. New water pump and gasket, new hoses all around, new OEM 180* stat, new OEM fan/clutch, Water Wetter was added, and even tried an Astro van fan assembly.
The inline Thermostat is okay, but so is a 180F original design Thermostat. I am not a fan of cutting the shroud for the inline thermostat, and I don't like all the extra clamps either. To me it looks crappy, and "if" I ever was to attempt the inline thermostat I'd keep the Thermostat in the same OEM location, and just slap a 90 in vs the T. It should still work & certainly would look cleaner, however I have no need for it as the 180F thermostat keeps me in the 188-210F range without any issues.
I've got a 500.00 D2 that I'm once again tinkering with & it's coolant system was a mess. Badly sealed waterpump which I replaced, broken T which I replaced, pinhole in lower hose at the waterpump, and I went ahead and swapped out the original 195F Thermostat for another new 195F I had laying around. I also swapped out the fan blade/fan clutch. Since my copper T doesn't have the bleed screw I've still got some decent air in the system. Temps are in the 205-211F range right now, but if I rev the engine the temps will go down to 200-202F. I'm guessing the original radiator is probably pretty clogged. I will get a new Britpart 180F thermostat and see how that does. If it still acts up I'll order a new radiator. New water pump and gasket, new hoses all around, new OEM 180* stat, new OEM fan/clutch, Water Wetter was added, and even tried an Astro van fan assembly.
The inline Thermostat is okay, but so is a 180F original design Thermostat. I am not a fan of cutting the shroud for the inline thermostat, and I don't like all the extra clamps either. To me it looks crappy, and "if" I ever was to attempt the inline thermostat I'd keep the Thermostat in the same OEM location, and just slap a 90 in vs the T. It should still work & certainly would look cleaner, however I have no need for it as the 180F thermostat keeps me in the 188-210F range without any issues.
Mike