Almost four months after having the Rover delivered to Oregon I was able to start working on it. I've been spending so much time remodeling our house since buying it in October that I haven't spent a single minute on the Rover until this past weekend.

Most of you know about the ongoing issues around the high temps, and the multiple things we've tried to fix it. After replacing the t-stat 3 times, and Airlifting the cooling system with no success we moved on. This weekend I was able to pull all the original tubing off the rover, and removed the OEM fan. I was able to mock up all the new tubing with the added t-stat housing. I also added an aluminum body before the t-stat that holds the sending unit for an addition temp gauge, peck **** valve, and sight glass. I still need to cut the upper fan shroud, modify the new t-stat, and put everything back together. The goal is to have it up and running by the end of the week, and license it in Oregon next week.

Out with the old


In with the new




I also have a bunch of other items to take care of due to this sitting for the last couple years. Both batteries are completely dead, and need to be exchanged under warranty. I need to redo some of the wiring, and install some items that were removed to install in our 4runner. I also plan on adding a solar panel to help with charging the battery since this won't be driven very much.

Mike

 

Welp, so much for the new inline stat. I'm completely confused/stumped at this point.



New auxiliary gauge installed just before the new stat, and that gauge reads 140. While the computer was reading 206, and that was after about 4 minutes at idle. The hose before the start was not to the touch, and after the start was cool. They hose at the bottom of the radiator was even cooler.

Nothing blocking/clogging the radiator, hoses, or anything else. Thermostat was installed in the correct direct, and with the correct orientation. I'm really beginning to wonder if there's something else going on at this point.

 

I was able to get some testing done last night, and below is what I found out after running the Rover for 10 minutes. All readings are from an IR scanner.



Then I waited I pulled some IR reading after we shut the engine off, and again after about 8 minutes.



After this I let it set for an hour or so, and came back out to look things over. Then I noticed the viscus fan had little to no residence against it when I turned it. I broke it loose from the water pump, and removed it. I was so loose that I couldn't free spin it off, and had to use a wrench on it until it was completely off the threads. Next I installed the slightly used Astro Van fan/clutch assembly that I removed after buying a new OEM. Then we started the Rover back up, and I instantly noticed the temp dropped with the new fan, but that was short lived.

Below are the temps after installing the new fan, and after about 2 hours of sitting.



I didn't bother taking any additional reading after that. Next I'm going to pull the t-stat, and running it wide open to see what happens. Before I do that I'm also going to flush the radiator just to make sure it's flowing good.

Mike

 

I pulled the 180* stat last night, and ran the Rover wide open with no stat in the housing. I also re-positioned the sensor for the new temp gauge into another housing for better positioning of the probe. This time around both the computer temp and gauge temp were just about the same, and matched the readings I was getting from the IR scanner.

This is after roughly 10 minutes at idle.


This is after roughly 16 minutes at idle.


After last night I was able to verify the radiator wasn't blocked, and that the computer sensors are reading correctly. Now the question is why does my Rover not like have a t-stat in?

Mike

 

Is there enough coolant flow through the thermostat to allow it to open? Maybe try drilling a hole, a larger hole or another hole?

 

I have the jiggle pin/valve at 12 o'clock which I believe is the appropriate position to allow for air to pass. I did not drill an 1/8" hole like others have done per the wife's request. Now I'm starting to wonder if this is the issue I'm currently seeing. Tonight I will be drill 1 if not 2 holes between the 5-7 o'clock positions on the stat.

Mike

 

It just seems like it is not opening, and I believe that is the purpose of the hole that is drilled. I am referencing Alex's thread if memory serves.

 

That sounds right, and I'm going to go that route tonight. I just want to make sure I'm supposed to have the jiggle valve at 12 o'clock as well.

Here's what I found that Savannah Buzz posted. I've read about it in several other threads, but didn't honestly think much of it. It does make sense though.
"One thing to remember is that the thermostat is not inside the water in the block. So you need to have one or two 1/8 inch holes drilled in the stat flange to circulate hot water past the stat when it is closed. Also, the 180F is a good start, being remote the block will be just a little warmer."

Mike

 

Just tossing this out there, but is the Thermostat mounted in the proper coolant flow direction?

 

I have it mounted with the spring/copper heat sensing element facing towards the engine so it's seeing the coolant flow from the engine. I'm pretty certain that's the correct direction, and my orientation of the stat has the jiggle valve at 12 o'clock.

Mike