Cooling System
#11
05-15-2017, 11:10 AM
Just to be clear, never open the bleeder when there is any heat at all in the engine compartment. If you are driving it today, DO NOT open the bleed screw when you get home.
Open the bleed screw only when the engine is stone cold before you start it.
Otherwise the system may still be holding pressure and opening the bleed screw at that point would be counterproductive.
I've had to bleed a few times lately and can say from experience this method may take four or five days of checking the level at the bleed screw before it did not need topped off. And even then it is literally low maybe a thimble full of coolant. You will not notice the level being a thimble quantity low in the overflow tank. You can only notice this in the bleed screw hole. So don't go by what you see in the tank as a reference in this case.
Also with temps around the mid 50's here in Seattle it still takes my truck several hours to cool down. Like it was still warm 5.5 hours after driving it to work. This is why I say check first thing before starting the engine when it is stone cold.
STONE COLD IS VERY IMPORTANT!
I used a small funnel to add coolant in through the bleed screw but you could also use a paper cup and pinch one side into a V shape. Then yes top it off so that it won't accept any more coolant. Repeat until you no longer need to add even a minute amount.
Open the bleed screw only when the engine is stone cold before you start it.
Otherwise the system may still be holding pressure and opening the bleed screw at that point would be counterproductive.
I've had to bleed a few times lately and can say from experience this method may take four or five days of checking the level at the bleed screw before it did not need topped off. And even then it is literally low maybe a thimble full of coolant. You will not notice the level being a thimble quantity low in the overflow tank. You can only notice this in the bleed screw hole. So don't go by what you see in the tank as a reference in this case.
Also with temps around the mid 50's here in Seattle it still takes my truck several hours to cool down. Like it was still warm 5.5 hours after driving it to work. This is why I say check first thing before starting the engine when it is stone cold.
STONE COLD IS VERY IMPORTANT!
I used a small funnel to add coolant in through the bleed screw but you could also use a paper cup and pinch one side into a V shape. Then yes top it off so that it won't accept any more coolant. Repeat until you no longer need to add even a minute amount.
It's sitting at the house today so I won't have to worry about it being hot. I'm going to look into coolant at the same time I change the oil. I know what needs to be done now, and I'll get started on it tonight.
I plan on picking up a new fan clutch just for piece of mind since the one on it has over 100k on it. I'll add coolant to the bleeder as needed, and cycle the heater to make sure I have no bubbles on the heater core end. I very well could have since it was disconnected, and not turned on since the install.
Thank you for all the information, and with any luck this will remedy the issue.
#12
05-15-2017, 12:31 PM
TReK
#13
05-15-2017, 01:10 PM
#15
05-15-2017, 02:21 PM
I'm going to upgrade my fan, and fan clutch while I'm working on this. I'm trying to decide between a Chevy Astro Van fan, and clutch. Or, get a Chevy Express 1/2 ton non ac fa, and clutch. I know both will work with no trims, but I'm not sure at what temp those engage. Time to do a little more research.
#16
05-15-2017, 02:26 PM
Pro Wrench
I'm going to upgrade my fan, and fan clutch while I'm working on this. I'm trying to decide between a Chevy Astro Van fan, and clutch. Or, get a Chevy Express 1/2 ton non ac fa, and clutch. I know both will work with no trims, but I'm not sure at what temp those engage. Time to do a little more research.
It's usually advisable to replace the water pump and clutch at the same time.
#17
05-15-2017, 02:44 PM
I'm questioning the bleeding of the system, fan clutch, ac fan, and t-stat at this point. I get a little more than a 1/4 spin on the blade after sitting all night. At what temp will the Rover fan clutch engage?
The water pump was replaced less than 5k miles ago, and I opted to keep that pump on the new engine. The water pump was in great shape when I pulled it off the old engine, and put it on the new one. I'm not 100% convinced the system is bled properly at this point either. I have several things that I need to check out, and hopefully find a solution for it.
I'll pick up a digital thermometer today when I'm getting other parts. I'll be digging at this until I get it figured out, and hopefully that doesn't take too long.
I don't work from BROG, but they do sponsor us. They offer some very nice products, and have a wide range of products.
Last edited by Mstudt; 05-15-2017 at 03:01 PM.
#18
05-15-2017, 03:15 PM
Super Moderator
Ambient air temps have a lot to do with what temp you'll get with a 180F thermostat. Yes when you're traveling at speeds of 45-65MPH you should be in the 188F range. The faster you go the more heat your engine is making, and eventually that combined with warmer ambient air temps (I've seen my Air Intake Temps well above 125F) then expect to be in the 193-200F range at say 70-75MPH easy.
#19
05-15-2017, 03:24 PM
Ambient air temps have a lot to do with what temp you'll get with a 180F thermostat. Yes when you're traveling at speeds of 45-65MPH you should be in the 188F range. The faster you go the more heat your engine is making, and eventually that combined with warmer ambient air temps (I've seen my Air Intake Temps well above 125F) then expect to be in the 193-200F range at say 70-75MPH easy.
The spike in temp was something new, and just started this past weekend. So something within the last 72 hours happened, and I need to find out what. With the temps getting hotter outside the engine temp is going to follow.
I need to check the coolant system to make sure it's bled down correctly, and that there are no bubbles in the system. I also need to check the auxiliary fan, and the fan clutch. Next in line after that is replacing the t-stat if nothing else works.
#20
05-15-2017, 04:24 PM
In a quick 5 minutes of poking around here's what I found.
1. Fan clutch is toast. The fan will freely spin at least 2 full rotations before coming to a stop. So needless to say I don't think it's working anymore.
2. AC condenser fan is completely seized up. So I don't think that's working either.
3. I can tell we have air in the system just from popping open the bleeder. I have to squeeze the coolant hose in order to get coolant to come out the bleeder hole.
I think I've figured out what's going out. Now I get to do my favorite thing, and that's spend more money. I actually don't mind spending money on our Rover which is surprising. The vehicle is really starting to grow on me, and I really want to see it running great.
Thank you to everyone on this forum who helped me along the way. I wouldn't where I am if it weren't for you.
1. Fan clutch is toast. The fan will freely spin at least 2 full rotations before coming to a stop. So needless to say I don't think it's working anymore.
2. AC condenser fan is completely seized up. So I don't think that's working either.
3. I can tell we have air in the system just from popping open the bleeder. I have to squeeze the coolant hose in order to get coolant to come out the bleeder hole.
I think I've figured out what's going out. Now I get to do my favorite thing, and that's spend more money. I actually don't mind spending money on our Rover which is surprising. The vehicle is really starting to grow on me, and I really want to see it running great.
Thank you to everyone on this forum who helped me along the way. I wouldn't where I am if it weren't for you.