My vehicle is getting older and rustier. I try to stay on top of it but have been looking for a decent solution to protect some of the exposed metal. Came across this video from project farm and it seemed like a pretty good test of products. Think I;ll try out the CRC and see how it does.

 

Nice. I used the eaton stuff it’s like a rubberized spray that you can insert into the frame also I get mine oil sprayed every year.
I just did my exhaust and while under there I spray inside the frame with a rust oil.

 

waxoyl

 

Sorry mate but waxoyl is crap. Google the reviews on it. It was great back in the early 2000’s when it first was used over here in England but there are better alternatives underbody protectorates since then... Dinitrol, Lanoguard, and the even better, Fluid Film and Krown.

 

I have Woolwax on mine and it works well. I think the oil concept is way better than hard coatings. It does need to be maintained but not much. You can find it on Amazon in clear or black.

 

Fluid Film is my go to - slimy but works.

 

Does anyone have Rust Check franchises in your area? I've had my Rover, my wife's 2002 VW Jetta TDI (sold with no rust and 285K on the odo), her new Tiguan, and back when I had really odd tastes on cars, all of the 5 Peugeots I owned. Developed in Canada in the 70's.

Works great and got to see that first hand, when my youngest son was rear ended in the '83 Turbodiesel sedan. Totalled, he was fine, just bruised, but the rear axle was pushed almost to the rear seat. Anyway, many of the sheet metal seams were torn open and there was no rust.

The material almost looks like ATF, red and somewhat clear. You need to have your vehicle resprayed about every 18 months, but is works for me. Good for both new and used vehicles. Also, the fluid enhances electrical connections, so that window switch in the door may suddenly start working again.

Great stuff and I use it for all my vehicles.

Check it out!

https://www.rustcheck.com/

 

The woolwax / fluid film type products are oil (different oil sources) based and can me messy and on first application might freak you out as to how messy they appear. Over time it has not been an issue for me. They tend to flash off some and become less wet over time but still remain wet and will wipe off. I did a test and ran a garden hose on a section of the frame at full blast for about 5 min to see if it would wash off. Some did but most remained on the frame and continued to repel water. I think the non drying solutions like this are the only ones that really work in the long run. Especially if you already have some corrosion. Think of it this way, when your rover has a decent oil leak you can tell by the lack of rust in the areas that it coats. Same concept here.

Here is a before and after. The green is a Eastwood frame coating product I had from a previous project. I used that first then coated everything inside and out with Woolwax. The last photo is taken today which is over a year later.

 

My other go to option is Maxima Chain Wax. Dries non-tacky but coats metal using a lubricant in a wax.

 

I've become a fan of just a wire brush (or wire wheel, even better) and then a nice thick coat of Rust-Oleum oil base paint brushed on. A gallon costs $35 and you only use about 1/4 of the gallon.