Ok.. so just getting a feel for cosmetic repairs and body work on my 2002 DII.

It has 150,700 miles on it.

Am I crazy for wanting to invest more money into it? I'm quite attached to it - have had it for 9 years and it gets the job done. I am planning on purchasing another vehicle this summer in addition to keeping the Rover. I am presently using the Rover as a daily driver and would continue to do so. The second car would be for my husband. I'm not one to typically carry loans and I like having vehicles that are paid for hence my reasoning behind fixing up the one that I have.

I have made a list of things that I need to tend to - prioritized from most important to least important. I was recently quoted a high price for body work. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I could do differently? Here goes:

1) Valve Cover Gaskets/Tune Up: $868 at independent shop (I don't feel comfortable doing this myself) I still need to try tightening the bolts myself (gently).

2) Body work: Right rear door wheel well has corrosion that has eaten thru the body. Needs to be patched or replaced. I have some rust underneath the Rover that could use touching up by a welder (not atrocious but being proactive). I was quoted $1500-$3000 by a body shop for patching and 'rust proofing the hell out of the vehicle, polishing it and making it really shine'

3) O2 sensors?...am assuming that I need these done soon? I haven't looked into quotes on this yet. Not something I'm comfortable doing myself, unfortunately.

4) New tires this winter - an expense with any vehicle

4) Key fobs - I have purchased the replacement shells - need to either do this myself or hire someone to change them out.

5) Headliner replacement. Called Barrett's Auto and Marine who quoted me $300 for a new headliner. I didn't think this was too bad for the amount of work involved.

6) Seat covers.. Cabella's or somewhere..

7) Detailing, etc. (I can do this myself)

Ok.. so there you have it. The body work is what is going to kill me. I told the guy that there is a big difference between $1500 and $3000. I don't think he liked me questioning his price. I just wanted it narrowed down so I had a grasp on how much i'd be investing this year. He said that he'd call at the beginning of April and didn't soooooo haha.. I don't think he's interested in working on it for $1500. I'm assuming most of you guys work on patching your vehicles yourselves? I also didn't care for the phrase 'rust proof the hell out of it' because that conjured up images of black crap all over the underbody - making it impossible for anyone to do fixes on parts in the future.

Thoughts?.. I would sure appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Christina

 

#1 That's a steal for the headliner lol
#2 I think you can handle the 02 sensors. You can nearly reach 2 of them from opening up the hood.
#3 I'm not 100% certain that most valve cover gaskets even go bad. If it's a small amount of oil (mine leaks a tad), I'd let it go. Take some of that money and invest in making sure you flush your fluids and change your filters.
#4 Rust I have no answer for that job / quote. I personally would look to have the body rust patched enough to feel comfortable with it. The underbody I wouldn't have touched unless it was a serious concern. My truck is rusted (and lifted really high) and I've just had to deal with seeing that ugly color. I just check periodically to make sure there isn't a concern for eating entirely through the frame

 

Thanks for your reply

1) yes, I thought that was a steal - hence why I put their name in the description in case anyone else in our area needs one done. I saw a Disco outside the place the other day and thought 'ok.. there we go.. headliner!'

2) I will try doing the top O2 sensors. The bottom 2 I have no idea how to get them done..

3) I've heard that valve cover gaskets are considered routine maintenance every year or so? (Atlantic British video).. and I definitely have leaking. heck, I may even have a leaking injector as I was messing around with one and the oil went from being a quarter sized drop to being a big ol' mess on the ground. It's sporadic like that.. almost like it's pooling somewhere and then drooling all over haha. I need to clean my driveway asap and figure out what the issue is.

4) I can understand that the gentleman who quoted me that price loves working on vehicles and wants to do the best job possible. He wanted to restore the finish, patch up the rust, weld everything, etc. And that is great.. but $3k seemed like an astronomical amount for a vehicle that, frankly, isn't worth a lot on Craigslist. I'll ask around and see if there are any guys in the area that do that kind of thing. I used to have someone who I worked with but I think he's long gone now.

I read this forum and get paranoid about what may happen next lol.. I need to just take a few deep breaths and dig in and try fixing some of this stuff myself. Thanks again

Christina

 

I did all 4 O2 sensors from the bottom, and frankly the rears are easier than the fronts. Are you showing codes for them? Fronts are more important than rears. Not a complicated job. 22mm box wrench or rent an O2 tool from advance auto or the like. Won't talks you long.

As for the rust, that seems fairly reasonable if the work is quality. Yes, they're not worth much more than that on Craigslist, but the ones on Craigslist also probably have the same rust as yours if not more not to mention the questionable service history while you are familiar with your service history. The trick is, body work costs the same whether its an Aston martin or an old Chevy farm truck, and if you want quality you've gotta pay for it. And you definitely DEFINITELY want quality where rust repair is concerned.

As for the valve covers, buy a new set and when you reinstall the. Coat both sides with blue hylomar. Permatex makes an equivalent you can bet at advance. Its like RTV but wont break apart as badly and won't clog up the oil pickup. Overtorque them a little bit. I think they're rated for 6 lbs or so. Torque them to 10 I think and also use blue picture on the threads. While you're in there you can put stainless allen head bolts to replace the terrible factory 12 sided. I don't remember the exact size, but there's a link in my signature (if its showing) that will take you to a post where I listed exactly what you need.

 

Thank you for your reply Alex. Did you have to move anything out of the way (ie; pull off lots of parts) to change out the O2s? I haven't been throwing any codes but having said that I haven't checked in a while. My check engine light is on but I assumed that was because the seal on my gas cap is broken.. again. I need to change that out and I'll check codes to see if the O2's are throwing anything.

And you are correct in stating that I am familiar with the service history. That is comforting and yes, I'm sure the gentleman was going to do quality work. He rubbed me the wrong way at first as initially he quoted $4k and said that I'd need a new panel. I suggested that I find a panel instead of ordering new and he hesitated and then said 'well I could patch it for you - that would save you from having to chase one down. Of course the rust may come back'. So then after we discussed a patch, I asked him to take a look at my rear hatch door which has minimal paint flaking/bubbling (along the bottom edge) and he started talking about removing the Series II badge and reinforcing it, making sure the door closes just so, etc. So that raised the price to a potential 3K. I guess it's just a decision that I'll have to make. If I was to sell this one and buy an LR3, I would be obtaining a vehicle where I don't know the service history and probably starting over again fixing things that need fixing on someone else's vehicle. I really love my vehicle..yes, it has quirks and weird issues (actuators working half the time, mysterious lights staying on for months on end, etc.) but it's part of me. Corny sounding but true haha.

 

You can't beat rust.

It seems to me that if you are gonna chuck that kind of money at it I would go a different route.

I look in C-list and D2's with bad motors come up all the time. They usually ask 1500 or so for them but you will get them for 500. Make an offer, leave your number and wait a few weeks. Three times now I have done this. They always call. Pay a shop 400-500 to swap motors. My mechanic charges 400 but his billable rate is only 35/hr.

Yeah, you will be starting off with a bunch of unknowns but you have a parts car ready. The new one might have good tires.

I am currently doing this on an 04 which has a bent frame. Truck looks good and has a strong motor but I'm not gonna mess with fixing it. Loads of replacements available. I get them in areas with no salt on the roads. It helps.

Edit: Saw you were from Wisconsin. Here is one close to you for 1400 (Mechanic Special) - means they will take half that.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/6087949941.html

 

Oh good god no lol... haha.. thanks but no thanks I'm in love with my OWN Rover, not somebody else's. I have put too much into this relationship to swap out motors and start driving something else. That, to me, would be pointless. Thank you for the suggestion but I'll stick with ol' reliable until I can't handle it any longer. I'll call around, get quotes for patching the hole and continue onward. I'm sure there will be a day that I will be ready for an LR3 or LR4. I don't like change and I'm trying to hold on to this one for as long as possible.

I'm in Michigan btw Thanks!

 

Check with Casey's customs or dark crow designs. I know the make replacement rocker panels n I'm sure they have had some issue with your rust issue before.
Blank Title - Home

 

Personally I would wait on the O2 sensors until you throw a code for them, otherwise you are basically paying to replace a working part

 

I understand the vehicle being a part of you. Mine got parked last June and I've driven it on a main road one time since then... To get a failed inspection stocker for catalytic converters. I've been driving my 08 Silverado. Its a great truck, but the discovery had soul. I miss it every d*mn day.

As the other user said, if the O2 sensors aren't throwing any codes then I would hold out.

As for the leaky gas cap: are you sure its not your purge valve? That was my issue as well as many others. To test, put a film of oil on your gas cap seal and clear the code. If it comes back its your purge valve. There's a Hyundai part that's a direct replacement and its quite a bit cheaper. Don't get the Dorman brand part. They don't last. The actual Hyundai part will last though. A quick Google search should find you the exact Hyundai part number. Its exactly the same piece. Purge valves are often killed when people like to out an extra squeeze of gas in their tank after it clicks off. Gas gets in it and kills it.

As for the rust, not much you can do for the rockers or the frame other than cut and replace unless you wanted to pay for a frame swap. Big $$$. The door however, if I were in your shoes, I would replace with one from a junk yard and have it paint matched if necessary. Rockers and frame ill cut and patch any day, but when it comes to body rust I just replace. I had my silverado rear quarter panels patched by a VERY reputable shop because of rust when I started driving.it. One side popped back out in a week. They ended up replacing the whole bed side, luckily deducting the cost of the initial repair from the second repair. The opposite side just popped back through a couple weeks ago and I'm going to have to have that bed side replaced too at some point. Frame rust can be dealt with because the metal is thicker and doesn't have to be as pretty. Body rust is a b*tch. That said, you shouldn't have problems out of any of the other body panels because they're all aluminum and won't rust.