hey guys,

i've been working with Josh on installing my CDL in my 03 disco, josh was so much help with the questions that i had. but i have a update for anyone thats looking to install a cdl in a 2003 disco...

NOTE: these updates are not in the write up (yet) and all recommendations should be that only, if these suggestions dont work on your truck/model year...then follow the write up josh provided

for starters ...

- on my 2003....the transmission tunnel plate that holds the transfer case shifter and the automatic transmission shifter is the same as a 2004...even though the 2003 doesnt have the cdl... meaning that you do not need to cut any holes in the trans tunnel plate to make a 2004 D2 cdl shifter work, as far has a D1 shifter, you STILL MAY NEED to CUT the HOLE for clearance...

You still need to remove the tunnel plate to gain valuable access to the (6) high/low selector housing bolts. and electrical hook ups.... this is a must and should be done before you get to dirty....

- On my 2003 transfer case i DID NOT NEED TO REMOVE GEAR SET from the main casing... Josh spoke with me on this and gave me some pointers....but even though the write up as noted the removal of the gear set...it might not be necessary, this would save you from removing the detent plug/spring/ball combo since the gear set never moved out of the main case. this also speeds up the install, limits the risk of screwing it up and saves your aching arms the work.

-the clevis pins on my 2003 were rusted on and wouldnt move....i had to drill them off on the high/low shifter side...i would recommend that anyone trying this on a NAS model near salted roads soak these pins with PB blaster or be prepared to drill the pins out if they dont come loose..

-the stock exhaust y-pipe can be a pain, take extra precautions at the rear bolt flange..... if pb blaster doesn't take care of the frozen rusted bolt heads, then be prepared to cut the studs using a sawzall. after the y-pipe is down and out of the way, you will need to drill out the rusted studs on both sides of the y-pipe to flange area.

if you didnt need to cut the flange studs... i would recommend that you replace them while you still can.

- Even though i soaked all of my bolts... because i live in michigan ...i broke 5 of the cross beam frame bar mounting bolts.... i will be making repairs to these missing bolts and drilling out the bad sections....

if you break 1 bolt on either side of the bars..i wouldn't bother.... but if you loose more than 1....i'd repair them

i'm so glad i didnt need to remove the gear set......i'll keep everyone updated if i notice anything to help the projects we are all undertaking when you install the cdl housing into the amazing discovery!!!!

 

Very nice so far.

I'd like to ask you, since they're so similiar, I'm contemplating removing just the front housing on my DI, the cdl won't engage.

Any surprises?

I believe it's in the housing, as I don't feel much resistance turning the short arm on the top of xfer case, there's some, but not what I'd expect.

luck,greg

 

also something i just noticed.... my t-case wasnt going into high.... i tried for hours to figure it out...and then it dawned on me....

if you install the high/low selector housing wrong...your indicator handle will be off ....lets explore this...

if your t-case is really in high...but when you install the selector housing...you dont line the selector arm up with the high/low gear arm...your housing lever will look like your in neutral or low....

this happened to me because of the cramped space you have to work with...... hope no one else has this happen during their install... i need sleep