My block had cracked, and I went with a Turner Short Block with H180 Cam.

The lesson I learned was change your damn thermostat.

The shop that put the engine in did a half *** job. I found things unattached, and just did the head gaskets myself after only 28,000 miles. Your best option will be to do it yourself, as frustrating as that may be.

If the block is not cracked, I would consider doing a big rebuild yourself if you can swing it, have the tools etc. Put in a Crower or Kent Cam, and get the top end bulletproof, new hoses, etc. While you are there pin the liners so they do not come loose.

Shops generally use whatever gasket kits they can find, I would recommend ordering them a Fel-Pro kit, rebuilt injectors($68 on ebay). Get ARP Studs, and new bolts for the lower intake manifold. Make sure they know to follow the Rave and to retighten bolts when needed.

Have them flush the cooling system really well, too.

Anyway, I hope your block is not cracked.

 

Thanks CollieRover - I hope it's not cracked as well. If it isn't I'll be getting the whole works done.. don't know if I feel confident to do it myself or if my husband would appreciate a garage full of Rover parts strewn about, although he doesn't complain much about the baby grand piano I have stored in there now, so...

I'm anxious. I never thought I'd have such an attachment to a vehicle..ever. I'm having nightmares about Rovers breaking down again.. (am I the only one?) I drove over to the shop again last night just to say 'hi'. She's just sitting outside looking proud and pretty.. I hate the fact that I cannot diagnose this myself and get it done. It's been over a month now and I'm frustrated. I bought a new vehicle to get myself around town and went to the grocery store Friday, only to come out to find someone had rammed their cart into the driver's side door repeatedly and dented the hell out of it. Went to the police station, filed a claim with the insurance company and then realized that I had signed up for a higher deductible to keep costs down. Sigh... think it's a candidate for PDR so I guess that's the route I'll take.

As for Bertha I don't know what to do. I don't even know who I'd call to put the dang Turner engine in her if needed. Guess I'll continue to wait and drive myself insane because that's the direction I'm headed in - haha.

The piano is moving inside August 1st so another week before I can store her in the garage if needed. Hoping I hear something from the shop soon. Thanks for the support.

 

If your truck hasn't been looked at by now pull it out of there and take it somewhere else.

 

X1 ................ find out what they have done on the D2 to date, if nothing, then do as shanechevelle suggests. The problem is they'll give you a lot of crap initially but ask to see what they have analysed and the spare parts they have bought (drill down into them). If none, go somewhere else and tell them they have max 2-3 weeks to sort the problems, and let them know (demonstrate) you're not a D2 sop or stupid. Good luck, give 'em hell!

 

Be very selective on who will put the engine in, and skip Britpart parts.

My advice is to find a good Engine Shop. The guy I brought my heads to knew it was a Buick 215, and knew what he was doing. Shops that make a living off of Brake jobs, are not going to want to do the work or do it correctly. You're better off spending 3k as opposed to $1800 for a better shop. Most shops want to do it cheap for their customers, that is what most people want.

First, call around to engine shops that restore or specialize in older cars like Muscle cars. It's a Buick 215, no mysteries or oddness. Ask them if they would be interested in a possible rebuild if the block is cracked. Find a place that can do all of the work from milling the heads to porting/polishing. They know what they are doing. If it is cracked have them drop in a Turner long block with the H180 Cam and gas flowed heads, clean up the upper intake parts(paint the valve covers if you want to be fancy or more, I did, also easier to clean, Duplicolor no primer or clear, which are a wast IMO), using all new bolts for the lower intake, I would recommend new Coilpacks, Wires, and plugs as well, and Cooling system which is never a bad idea.

If the block is good I would collect a Fel-Pro Head Gasket Kit, ARP studs or Bolts from Turner, have the shop deck the heads, and clean everything up. New Cooling system from Stat to Genuine Hoses(The Britart are a pain), Ask them to make a list of things you will need and get them from Lucky 8 or Rovers North or a dealership. The Dealership is a good place for bolts, O Rings etc. The more you pay attention the more they will. Have them really inspect the bearings, and if you can put in a Crower or Kent H180 Sports Torque Cam, they are an awesome upgrade. Have them pin the liners while the heads are out, and you will avoid the knock.

Take your time, but really find someone who knows what they are doing. Good luck!

 

Thanks guys for your input. I'm somewhat to blame on the time frame as I spoke with them 2 weeks ago and told them to take their time. They hadn't looked at it yet and said that they were 'thinking about it' quite a bit. I trust them and know that they are stand-up individuals and they've worked on my Rover before. Truthfully I told them I wasn't in a hurry as I didn't want them to feel pressured over something that I know can be time consuming and most likely expensive. I'll give it another week or so and call them again. I just wish I had the know-how to delve into it and say 'yes, it's a cracked block' or 'oh, it's the intake manifold gasket', yada yada. I suppose I could but let's face it haha.. that may be a real freak show. It's the unknown that drives me insane and makes my anxiety level go up.

Soo.. thanks for listening to me vent and thanks CollieRover for the thorough and specific instructions on how to do this if I need a new engine. I've bookmarked your post and will definitely refer to it if needed. Something tells me it will be..

I've been without my Rover for a year before, but was ok because I knew what the issue was. This time it's different because it's unknown as to what the issue is and to be quite honest I am a little intimidated when it comes to engine lingo. Hopefully I'll know something soon.

Thanks again,

Christina

 

I would suggest you might want to be in this frame of mind before you call the shop.

 

.. I never swear

 

 

Interesting read..

https://www.offroaddiscovery.com/201...nd-replacement

CollieRover, did you have to have your ECU remapped or did you use the same MAF?