Hi everyone. I am a new member here, but not new to rovers. I have owned 3 disco's in the past, as well as 2 range rovers. I just picked up this beautiful 04 disco hse with only 47k miles. Only driven it for less than 100 miles to notice a slight misfire. No ses but clearly the misfire was evident. No smoke out of tail pipe or anything. I figured it was probably due for some 8mm magnacores. Ordered the wires and am still waiting for them to arrive. This morning I had my friend reverse the car out of the driveway as I guided him out, and noticed a puff of white smoke that started about 3 seconds after the car was on and disappeared after another 3 seconds. Hmmm..... When I started the car by myself to check for smoke, I don't think I got to the tail of the truck within 6 seconds so I never saw the white smoke. It was not a little bit of smoke, but a lot, enough to point to a coolant leak.

My record time for the hg is 5 hours from start to finish on both sides, so I went at it. Pulled off the passenger head to find piston 5 very clean. Also noticed that the head was obviously pulled before as there is a thread insert between cyl 5. Knowing that a weak point of these motors is at the bottom of the bolt holes, I squirted some water with a syringe in each bolt hole. The bolt hole with the insert never filled up with water and I noticed that the water was flowing to the water jacket!!!!!!! Bummer removed the insert and found there is a large gash on the side of the bolt hole and at the bottom. I'm assuming this happened when the insert was installed. Fortunately, the hole is on the coolant chanel and not the oil Channel. I am trying to figure out how to plug this hole as it seems the water was pushing it's way up the bolt hole and into the cylindern causing the misfire.

Does anyone have any suggestions other than replacing the block as I know it is salvageable, i just need to get creative. How pressurized is this system? Enough pressure to blow out jb weld? Marine resin? How about rtv?
Really appreciate any help I can get.
Thank you

 

IMHO it is time to head for a salvage yard. Of course you know that is a solution, but others may not. In my area, complete engines go for $249, block only $99. Some yards even offer a 30 day or 180 day warranty (for a few dollars more).

The psi of the coolant system can be greater than the relief rating of the coolant jug cap, especially in over heating conditions. But 15 psi is a rule of thumb. I would think that the products you mention might not perfom well under heat/cool cycles. The interior temp of the block certainly exceeds the coolant temp. However, there may be other solutions that will be suggested.

One item to look at is Lab Metal. See Epoxy Filler, Aluminum Epoxy, Epoxy Putty, high temperature epoxy - Alvin Products - Metal Restoration and Repair

5 hours for HG? Not enough beer breaks.....

 

I would have to agree the block is junk. one possibility that you might give some consideration to is using an ARP head stud kit, that way you could epoxy the stud into the hole and tighten the head down using a nut. but i fear whatever you use the water is going to find its way between the block and the sleeve causing the sleeve to move.

 

The engine is already junk, JB Weld the sucker, put it back together and drive it until you can source another engine.
Turner Engineering in the UK has the best deal on short blocks.
Brand new short block shipped to your door in less than a week for $3500.

 

Aluminum cast block. You can have it welded and retap the hole.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I wish I could find a junk yard that had these engines for $250. I think what I'm going to try to do is remove the sleeve to gain access to that hole and weld it from the side. Only permanent solution I could think of. Now.........any way to get that sleeve out with the block still in the car. I think i saw a video a while back of some crazy Aussie pulling every liner out in less than 10 seconds.lol

 

Dry ice?
Pack the liner with dry ice, it contracts and you slide it out? Maybe? Maybe not? I have no idea.

 

Teflon tape the bolt threads and leave the reservoir cap loose.
I agree with Spike... JB weld it or whatever and drive until you find another block. If it's running well and coolant isn't going into the oil then you can buy yourself some time. The only bad part is spending all that time and money putting it back together knowing that you will just have to do it all over again....

Eric

 

Maybe check with shops or sites involved with big diesel rebuilds (heavy trucks and equipment) - their engines can be much more costly, and they may have some stuff that would be too expensive to carry at NAPA, AutoZone, etc. And the welding idea might just work out, talk to a skilled welding shop.

 

James - take a look at this thread......

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...num-fix-31772/

Aluminum Repair Video using our brazing rod HTS-2000 and a heat source, no welding machine needed!

Without pictures not sure how easily you could manipulate this stuff where it needs to go.

Might have to redrill and run a tap through it.......