Thanks for that Joe. I think the lifters I already bought will just end up on ebay.

 

the only downside to greater amount of spring pressure is, the valve face and valve seat get a beating, and greater chance of cam lobe wearing premature. If you were building an 8000+ rpm engine, then you would have to have more spring pressure. Valve float on most engines is what limits the rpm and sometime that is a good thing. I have not looked at the specs on the cam in question, but hopefully it is designed for low end torque, rather than high rpm power. That is, not too long of a duration. One of the reasons i used Rhoads lifters, was at lower RPM, a radical cam was a little tamer, and not lope so much. Another thing to think about is push rods, I usually had to put hardened tip push rods, because that became the weak link. But, I also usually ran stainless steel roller rockers. Granted I was building 355 cu in, Small Block Chevy Engines most of the time.

 

Oh man I wish I was working on a small block Chevy; it would have been done many weeks and many hundreds less ago.

I was planning to use my existing push rods and rockers because they look fine and I can at least change those out on my own at the expense of some gaskets but heck, in for a penny in for a pound... you have any suggestions for those?

I'm awaiting news on the cylinder honing Monday. Hopefully they will be standard becuase otherwise it seems I'll be getting new sleeves. No one seems to know where to get oversize rings. The shop already took care of the valves and told me I don't need new seals or guides.

I'm really glad the shop told me about the springs so I can at least make an informed decision. It sounds like I should NOT get new springs. Right?

If germane I drive like a 90 year old and don't tow much of anything but if I didn't have a gutless engine you never know.

 

If your springs and push rods are in tolerance, I would use them. We used to use lighter springs to break in a new cam anyway. We also used to use S&S Springs, but I don't even know if they are still around or make them for our engines. Definitely read up on proper break in for the new cam, been too long since I have had to do this. I am not saying to do this to your new engine, but we put the engine together and did not put any coolant in it, ran it for for a few minutes to get it good and warm, then let it cool and put in coolant. Reason was, it sealed all the gaskets better. I went to a well known engine builder's shop and saw he was running a freshly rebuilt engine on an engine stand. From then on, every engine i built was started and ran on an engine stand before installing in vehicle. This way, I could check for oil leaks, coolant leaks(easier to fix, while still out). You just cannot throttle up abruptly, the torque would twist that engine off the stand. You can, however throttle up slowly and hold it at a certain RPM. I had radiator setup, and even had exhaust vented out of the shop. I know this probably would not work on these computer controlled engines, (just a stroll down memory lane).

 

Well I changed my fuel pump a couple of days ago and the old one only has a tiny leak so I was thinking about how to hook it up to a battery before I finished your post. But yeah I think the lack of computer brains would leave our engines... brain dead on a stand.

 

To heck with it. My guides and seals are in good shape and I can change the springs later if I want. Crower didn't call me back anyway to make a three hundred dollar sale and I don't want to wait another four weeks. I've never had my engine over 4000 rpms anyway.

Stock springs will probably help the cam and valves last longer so... I can't use my normal language... FREAK IT.

 

I think you will be good to go. Good luck, Buddy