Have a 2001 Disco II that a trusted mechanic just replaced the Crucifix/Cross Seal.

After careful replacement, it was fine for about 3 days and now it has started to leak again.....

Any suggestions on how to stop the leaking would be greatly appreciated as I just replaced my concrete driveway and don't want to leak all over it.

And please don't say, "Discos are supposed to leak". I have spent a fortune on replacing everything ELSE that was leaking and now this.

 

I think it would depend on which seals he used(I don't trust the ones with just the knot at the intersection, only the full cross style)

, if he put some rtv silicone in the grooves before putting the seals in, filled the rest of the empty groove with rtv, and cut the excess off the seals that sticks out of the bottom of the rear main cap(before putting the rear cap back into the block).
If you don't cut the excess off with a razor, the bearing cap won't seat completely(even though it looks like it does), and the block surface will push the excess/protruding seal back up into the seal channel in the bearing cap, distorting it, and squashing it's end, causing a leak.
The seal ends also need razored flush on the oil pan side of the rear main cap as well(in the picture), or else it will leak between the block and oil pan.
The oil pan gasket should have a thin bead of rtv on both sides of the gasket, and everything Needs to be torqued to spec, in order.

 

Side veiw of rear main bearing cap, one seal on each side(2).

You can see how the knot style vs the cross style really effects how good a seal you would get at the intersection of the grooves in the bearing cap.
And, with the cross style, how the long section of seal would protrude from each end of the cap.
And the short section of the full cross seal is still not long enough to extend to both ends of the cap.
So might as well fill those with rtv, vs having oil in those 2 grooves directly against the seals.
Every little bit helps.

Also, if you are using a 5 or 10w30 or 40 full synthetic oil, it has been reported to find it's way out much easier than dino oil, for whatever that's worth.
I go with most of the forum on Rotella 15w40 just in case

 

Thanks Sixpack so much of the great advice!!!!!!

I have already sent your reply over to the Mechanic.

Again, can't thank you enough as with Rovers, the Devil is ALWAYS in the Details!

 

OK, dropping the oil pan and doing the cruciform seals properly is the way to go. Cool. Simple. Right. Proper. Do that!








...but many a slow oil leak past bad gaskets has been stopped by lazy, cheap owners who just spray high temp engine paint or bed liner over the area from outside. No new parts. No new oil change. No disassembly. No reassembly.

 

Yes sir, glad I could help

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...install-92942/

You should also do Best4x4's pcv valve mod.
It will help prevent the valve covers, and other gaskets and seals from leaking oil.
It's cheap and simple too.

 

Just brining this one back.

I just had my RMS replaced only to still have the 3.9L still leaking from what we now thing are the Crucifix seals.

The shop agreed to try using the oil pan approach having just done the RMS but despite removing the two bolts holding in the plate with the crucifix seal they can't get it out.

Any suggestions on how to pull this out without dropping the tranny?

Thanks!

 

Got to remove the cross bolts too. Then put the vertical bolts in and squeeze and rock back and forth.

 

I thought there were only the two bolts. I'll let the shop know about the cross bolts. Is this all accessible by way of the oil pan?