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Cylinder Head Installation Issue

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Old May 12, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #21  
jthomas's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: South Florida, South America
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Check out this video of the first 90* tightening. I used a 1/2" telescoping ratchet from Harbor Freight (THIS ONE). I checked with my manual beam torque wrench and the torque was 35-37 ft-lbs after the first 90* turn.


I also used the same ratchet for the 2nd 90* tightening. I didn't check what the final torque was on the final 90* turn. I could have definitely tightened them past the last 90* turn without having the threads go. They were very tough to remove (had to buy a 1/2" 25" breaker bar to get them off) and tough to install with the engine stand moving on me.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 10:59 AM
  #22  
james.martin1's Avatar
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Mudding
Joined: May 2013
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From: Massachusetts
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It's been a while since I have been on here but I did get the disco back together. I did not check the torque this time, but I cleaned all of the oil/coolant out of the head bolt holes this time and it seemed to torque down a lot smoother. When it was all finished it even started up and ran great on the first try. Now just I just need to get a few smaller things done before its 100% road worthy.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 09:40 PM
  #23  
frankieoboy's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2010
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OK, don't shoot met yet.
Can someone explain how is the bolt stretching mechanism is working ?
I was under the impression that heat was responsible for the tension relief in those bolts. But if the stretching occurs in their cold situation, overtorquing is destroying them.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #24  
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
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From: Savannah Georgia
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They are designed to distort (stretch) at a proper torque. Then in a very basic view, they act like a spring keeping pressure on. Just use them once. Some can measure them and compare specs and perhaps re-use. I just ordered another bag of bolts.
 
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