Cylinder head stretch bolts or arp studs
#1
Cylinder head stretch bolts or arp studs
Im replacing the head gaskets on my 2000 disco 2 with 154k on it. After removal and based off the nice ding under the hood by the steering shaft, this isn't the first head gasket replacement. I've studied the rave over and over and ordered the head gasket kit with bolts from lucky 8 off road. My question is, to keep the stretch bolts or not. I'm looking and staying with stretch bolts but keep seeing the reviews on swapping to arp studs. I do think that when it is time for another set of head gaskets, it will be time for an engine rebuilt. If I do stick with the stretch bolts, any recommendations on using oil or loctite? I've read different reviews on that as well. My indication for the head gasket leaking was a small coolant leak coming from the rear of the block on the passenger side right above the starter. It was minuscule but knew it would have turn into something worse. I think sealant might have not been applied properly in the notches as described in the rave manual and dexcool coolant. The heads are getting cleaned, reworked, and decked if needed while we speak. I'm intending on starting reassembly this Friday or Saturday and trying to get all my ducks in a row and since owning this vehicle, this forum has been a great help. I was a mechanic by trade before swapping career paths but now just play shadtree/driveway mechanic on my personal stuff. Thanks in advance
Jay
Jay
#2
#3
I've read good arguments in favor of both. For me, I'm sticking with the stretch bolts. Stretch bolts offer some forgiveness to accommodate the block heating and cooling - the technical explanation is escaping me right now... something about equal clamping force.
Whether stretch bolts or studs, do not use engine oil or loctite. Engine oil might hydrolock the bolts and crack your block. I personally use ARP Fastener lubricant on the threads and on the underside of the flange head.
Whether stretch bolts or studs, do not use engine oil or loctite. Engine oil might hydrolock the bolts and crack your block. I personally use ARP Fastener lubricant on the threads and on the underside of the flange head.
#4
I'm leaning more on sticking with the stretch bolts and when it comes time to rebuild the engine, swapping to arp then. Thanks for the quick reply. When you changed yours, where was the leak? Mine was a minuscule one on the left rear that dripped on the starter (had to replace that already). I know the rave calls for oil and I have been nervous of it causing it to lock. Does the arp lube work well?
#5
No leak Just doing it for... fun...
I forgot the manual does say to engine oil. That should be fine, I just wouldn't dunk the bolt in oil, use you finger to lightly coat the threads.
ARP lube is weird, its very thick, more like a paste. Seems to work well though. It's entirely unnecessary unless you are using ARP studs - in that case its a good idea because thats what ARP benchmarks their torque specs against.
I forgot the manual does say to engine oil. That should be fine, I just wouldn't dunk the bolt in oil, use you finger to lightly coat the threads.
ARP lube is weird, its very thick, more like a paste. Seems to work well though. It's entirely unnecessary unless you are using ARP studs - in that case its a good idea because thats what ARP benchmarks their torque specs against.
#6
Go with stock stretch bolts.
Use the land rover tightening sequence.
Worked for me.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Use the land rover tightening sequence.
Worked for me.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
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